Cutting down a wardrobe?

no what i ment was cut off the small panel then flip 'flipping wont work now as hinges wont line up
now your best bet is to reform the top but that relies on the panels coming out easily and accurate work from now on with a chop saw or possibly with a mitre box
 
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big-all said:
no what i ment was cut off the small panel then flip 'flipping wont work now as hinges wont line up
now your best bet is to reform the top but that relies on the panels coming out easily and accurate work from now on with a chop saw or possibly with a mitre box
Click to expand...
So basically I should have cut the whole small panel off leaving just one complete large one? In the future i mean
 
Keitai said:
So basically I should have cut the whole small panel off leaving just one complete large one? In the future i mean
Click to expand...
if the cut end is the finished door strength wise yes but cosmetically may be not
often doors are only held together by the top and bottom rail with everything else slotted in so the mid rail near the end would give you the option to turn a loose rail into a secured near the end rail rather than say 3ft loose floppy panel
 
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big-all said:
if the cut end is the finished door strength wise yes but cosmetically may be not
often doors are only held together by the top and bottom rail with everything else slotted in so the mid rail near the end would give you the option to turn a loose rail into a secured near the end rail rather than say 3ft loose floppy panel
Click to expand...

Ok. Thxs. Regarding using a fence on an unlevel surface such as this old wardrobe to cut across. What would you suggest? The edge of my saw slipped under the ply I was using and messed up the cut. Should I screw the fence in three bits to waste side?
 
Keitai said:
Ok. Thxs. Regarding using a fence on an unlevel surface such as this old wardrobe to cut across. What would you suggest? The edge of my saw slipped under the ply I was using and messed up the cut. Should I screw the fence in three bits to waste side?
Click to expand...
is this a one off off many to do???
do you plan on reforming the end rail ??
do the panels slide out ??
 
I've taken the liberty of preempting and solving your next question/problem.

Hope it's OK (y)

foto_no_exif (2).jpg
 
was actualy thinking only about the doors at this stage as in rails and styles :D(y)
 
big-all said:
is this a one off off many to do???
do you plan on reforming the end rail ??
do the panels slide out ??
Click to expand...
One off. Regarding cutting on unlevel surface I'll hold the circular saw at an angle (the front lifted up slightly ) that should not allow it to slide under the fence
 
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In terms of sawing this sort of thing, you can either buy yourself a plunging rail saw and rails (expensive) or you can make yourself up a guide for your saw which can be clamped onto the material. This is basically a piece of 4 or 6mm plywood or MDF with a straight piece piece of 2 x 1 PSE softwood screwed and glued down one edge:

16205942521481413072006410352837.jpg


Just note that before using it "in anger" you need to make a trim cut to size base exactly to the saw. This type of fence or bridge should allow you to cut fairly uneven stuff with or without non-straight edges but without any need to reference the saw fence which is redundant for this operation as the left side of the sw base (for right hand blade saws, for left blade saws you run the other way with the right edge of the base against the 2 x 1). The guide does need to be clamped in place, though, before cutting
 
Last edited by a moderator:
JobAndKnock said:
In terms of sawing this sort of thing, you can either buy yourself a plunging rail saw and rails (expensive) or you can make yourself up a guide for your saw which can be clamped onto the material. This is basically a piece of 4 or 6mm plywood or MDF with a straight piece piece of 2 x 1 PSE softwood screwed and glued down one edge:

View attachment 233114

Just note that before using it "in anger" you need to make a trim cut to size base exactly to the saw. This type of fence or bridge should allow you to cut fairly uneven stuff with or without non-straight edges but without any need to reference the saw fence which is redundant for this operation as the left side of the sw base (for right hand blade saws, for left blade saws you run the other way with the right edge of the base against the 2 x 1). The guide does need to be clamped in place, though, before cutting
Click to expand...

I've made all mine from high pressure laminate/Phenolic sheet (tufnol) which is much more durable and stable than ply.

I suspect that there will be a good cheap supply for the next few years if you keep your eyes out for any high-rise blocks having their cladding removed and skipped!

What I would add to the design, is to allow for clamping on the raised strip, as otherwise the saw motor can hit the clamps at either end. Typically remove some of the raised strip so the clamp is lower, or form a wider base.
 
D

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