Exterior Plyboard for a garden workshop

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I am at the planning stage of building a new workshop. The shed will be up alongside a fence on two sides so fairly protected. While I will the cladding the exposed sides, will it be OK to cover the sheltered sides in exterior plyboard. Should I use "marine" ply? Should I treat them with any preservative or protective woodstain?

Thanks all.
 
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I strongly recommend you cover the framework with breathable membrane, then fit 50 x 25 vertical battens.

Then cladding on visible sides. 12mm renderboard on fence sides - its about £40 a sheet. No issues with rotting
 
Cover the plyboard sheets with something like Tyvek and secure them with vertical battens.

Is there a particuar type of render board that you suggest - not familiar with the term.

Thanks for the reply.
 
From the amount of delamination I've seen in so-called exterior grade plywood used as sarking boards on one recent project (with a membrane installed over it) I am now inclined to suggest cement board over plywood for exterior cladding
 
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Thanks Notch. I have been looking further into this and come across products I had never really contemplated - like Cedral and HardiePlanks.

As I mentioned above, I am looking for cladding for the unseen sides which will have the least exposure to the weather. Aesthetics will play no part in the choice.

Even though they have no exposure to the weather, being close to a fence, damp, rot, insects and rodents are a major consideration. Once erected, I will not be able to access the outside so low maintenance is a major consideration.

So I now realise that scrimping on these side might be a false economy. I am happy to pay the right price for something that will last and keep dry.

Cedral and HardiePlanks look great but are expensive because they provide for the aesthetic considerations. I am looking for the same material but in sheet form.


This is the closest I have found.https://www.cedral.world/en-gb/cladding/our-products/cedral-board/
 
Hardie planks are a form of...

...cement fibre board.

We use Versapanel sheets on the current project - hundreds of sheets of it. It's heavy, but it is waterproof and fire proof (especially if the joints are filled with intumescent caulk) as well as bring an insulator. They are a smooth finish, however, so may not be suitable for you

Cement fibre boards can all be cut with a circular saw, although it's better (easier) if you use a PCD blade as it blunts or burns out TCT fairly quickly. Manufacturers always say that you can score it and snap it - all I can say is good luck with that and that life's too short as well as the resulting edge is horrible. I am currently experimenting with a form of powered shears to cut the stuff - seems fast, less dust but the cuts are rough so edges will need to be hidden. It's extremely dusty stuff to cut with a circular saw, so a face-fitted P3 mask plus dust extraction (vacuum) are highly advisable. Detail cuts can be done with a jigsaw and a wavy set metal blade, but again the blades won't last long. You can get special high-low screws for it, but fundamentally it screws well with bugle headed drywall screws (ideally pre-piloted) and can even be fixed to a timber frame using a first fix nailer and ring nails
 
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Thanks. Versapanel - same as Hardie board only cheaper because they dont have the aesthetic features which are not a requirement for me. I am reading that they offer good damp protection and I am guessing that they will also be a bit more rodent proof than plywood - so that is good.

I am beggining to wonder why they are not more widely used as outbuilding cladding.
 
Versapanel - same as Hardie board only cheaper because they dont have the aesthetic features which are not a requirement for me. I am reading that they offer good damp protection and I am guessing that they will also be a bit more rodent proof than plywood - so that is good.
We're using Versapanel as a water resistant sub liner for balconies (walls and floors) and cloister (walls) as well as for increasing fire rating (sub floor skins, cloister walls) where we need to get 2 hour fire rating (3 skins of 12mm Versapanel plus one skin of 12mm plasterboard onto a 6 x 2 timber frame with 50mm mineral wool batting in the middle). Hardie do a similar board, as do Marley/Cedral (made in Widnes, I believe). We just went with Versa as it was the board the SE had done the calcs on

I think that cement fibre boards are only just coming to the fore in UK construction. I don't recall seeing them.used anywhere except bathrooms or wet rooms until the last 4 or 5 years, despite having been available for some time
 
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Ive got them as a garage roof.

Problem is the fibres are asbestos...
 
Ive got them as a garage roof.

Problem is the fibres are asbestos...
You've got what as a garage roof? Cement fibre board? If so it hasn't got asbestos in it. Cement asbestos board is a different product. In point of fact no building materials sold in the UK have had as asbestos in them since 1999 with the sole exception of a few specialised steam pipe seals which were granted short term derogations at the time which have since run out
 
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I was commenting on this:

I think that cement fibre boards are only just coming to the fore in UK construction.

Of course I know its a different product - everybody does, but the point is that, generically, "cement fibre boards" are not new.
 

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