Asbestos Soil Pipe

Gashead86 · 14 Jul 2021

Hi There,

I have a suspected asbestos soil pipe to my 1960's built property in Bristol.

I have two questions..

1) Is there a sure fire way of telling if the pipe is made of asbestos without going through the cost of having it tested? When tapped the pipe makes more of a hollow ringing noise than a thud as you might expect of a concrete type material (asbestos). I have put a magnet against the pipe and unfortunately whatever the material is it does not appear to be magnetic..

2) If indeed the pipe does transpire to be asbestos, I have seen that you can now buy what is essentially a connector of sorts (looks like a pan connector) to take old sized cast iron / asbestos pipe to new size UPVC.. Should I be cutting the existing pipe at ground level, connecting to upvc and then rebuilding from there? Or should I be completely removing the asbestos / cast pipe all the way down to the point it meets the drain (will involve some minor excavation but so be it) and renewing completely?

Any ideas / tips on this would be greatly appreciated

oldbutnotdead · 14 Jul 2021

If it is asbestos you don't really want to be cutting it. If it is in good condition and where you want it then seal it (paint) and leave it alone.

CBW · 14 Jul 2021

You need it testing to be 100%, if you suspect it, you could always use a removal firm. I agree with @oldbutnotdead, don’t go cutting it if you suspect it is.

Stadan20 · 14 Jul 2021

Put a magnet on it ... if it sticks then its cast . If not then more than likely asbestos

Hugh Jaleak · 14 Jul 2021

I'd be 99% sure that is asbestos cement, simply by the distinctive shape of the collars. Acid test would be the magnet, soil pipes of that era were either metal or AC. If as you say, it doesn't stick, then you're pretty likely to have AC.

The last thing you want to do is break it or anything else that will release dust. If DIYing, wear disposable overalls, a quality dust mask, dismantle with care, keeping it wet whenever possible to reduce release of dust, wrap it in suitable polythene, and dispose of correctly. Replace the lot, excavate as required (carefully) to expose the underground drain.

Note, the hopper and downpipe are also highly likely to be AC. I'd remove these at the same time and reroute the wastes into the new stack.

Gashead86 · 15 Jul 2021

Hugh Jaleak said:
I'd be 99% sure that is asbestos cement, simply by the distinctive shape of the collars. Acid test would be the magnet, soil pipes of that era were either metal or AC. If as you say, it doesn't stick, then you're pretty likely to have AC.

The last thing you want to do is break it or anything else that will release dust. If DIYing, wear disposable overalls, a quality dust mask, dismantle with care, keeping it wet whenever possible to reduce release of dust, wrap it in suitable polythene, and dispose of correctly. Replace the lot, excavate as required (carefully) to expose the underground drain.

Note, the hopper and downpipe are also highly likely to be AC. I'd remove these at the same time and reroute the wastes into the new stack.

Hi, thank you for the response. Very helpful.

Yes, the magnet did indeed not stick so I had pretty much resigned myself to it being asbestos..

I have checked and my local tip will take asbestos as long as it is double wrapped, so I have purchased some asbestos disposal bags, ALL appropriate PPE and will now begin the process of removing the old asbestos pipe myself...

If I follow all correct procedures (which I absolutely will!!) is there any real reason why I cannot do this myself? My plan will be to tower scaffold around the stack and then cut away sections slowly and carefully whilst double bagging as I go...

Thanks all for your help.

Nozzle · 15 Jul 2021

Take some wallpaper paste, stick some dye in it. Smother that on your joints before "breaking". Any fibres should then be contained in the dyed splurge. Stick it in the bags.

Nozzle

Gashead86 · 15 Jul 2021

Nozzle said:
Take some wallpaper paste, stick some dye in it. Smother that on your joints before "breaking". Any fibres should then be contained in the dyed splurge. Stick it in the bags.

Nozzle

Wow! What a brilliant idea!

Assume the dye is to then further highlight any particles that may have escaped during cutting?

Thank you ever so much for the advice.

Nozzle · 15 Jul 2021

No, the dye is so you can easily see where the splurge is, so you can easily see that you've throughly coated the joint. It's not a precision job, you won't see microscopic particles, dyed or otherwise.

Lower · 15 Jul 2021

I would break it rather than cut it. Less fibre release that way.

Tigercubrider · 15 Jul 2021

When I got rid of my gutter/downpipes/box I didn't break it.
Harder with soil pipes I expect.

I used builders' black HD poly and double wrapped with duct tape.
Looked like an episode of the Sopranos as I loaded the car.

You could wrap the installed pipe in clingfilm/pallet wrap before removal

oldbutnotdead · 15 Jul 2021

As all the advice above, if you can break the joints you'll generate much less dust. Any cutting will create dust....

Tigercubrider · 15 Jul 2021

I believe the joints were just sisal string and a but of putty?

Nige F · 15 Jul 2021

Hugh Jaleak said:
I'd be 99% sure that is asbestos cement, simply by the distinctive shape of the collars.
Note, the hopper and downpipe are also highly likely to be AC. I'd remove these at the same time and reroute the wastes into the new stack.

I'm 100% with Hugh there - even the pipe bracket is for asbestos pipe.

Gashead86 · 15 Jul 2021

Than you guys.

So we are saying that rather than cut it into small sections as I had planned (say approx 50cm long chunks) I am better to simply pull the existing joints apart carefully (still in full PPE of course) and then bag them up in their entirety?

My only real concern in doing it this way is I have absolutely no idea how heavy this stuff is likely to be and at the longest part there is a section of approx 2LM that I would imagine would be incredibly difficult to handle on my own once removed from the joint....

Also, back to the wallpaper paste and dye suggestion.. Sorry if I am asking silly questions, but I can see the logic of the paste to minimise disruption and thus fibre release once pipe is disturbed, but I am not sure what the dye is adding to the equation?

Again, thanks for all help.

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Asbestos Soil Pipe

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