Some areas of a bathroom 240v is not allowed. bathrooms have Zones
MR16 bulbs in bathroom keep on blowing out
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Some areas of a bathroom 240v is not allowed. bathrooms have Zones
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Only in zone 0, surely - actually in the bath.
Yes, maybe i worded that poorly.
Not all 240volt lights are suitable for Zone 1.
Would you consider that a 12 volt adapted fitting, would always comply with Reg 701.55
Everything, whatever the voltage, has to be stated as suitable for use in the zone by the manufacturer.
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It is "interesting" that the usual discussions go on (and on) on this site (between one and most other persons.)
However, the OP does not seem to have responded since his/her original post.
While he/she did have 4 MR16 incandescent lamps (of between 20 and 50 W each - 80 W to 200 W), he/she would be better advised to replace all of these with 4 MR16 LEDs of about 5 W each (20 W) (as it was stated in Post #1 that he/she wants to do) and replace the associated Driver(s)/Transformer(s)/Electrical Converter(s) etc. - or whatever makes everyone happy with the term used - to suit the LEDs concerned.
However, the OP does not seem to have responded since his/her original post.
While he/she did have 4 MR16 incandescent lamps (of between 20 and 50 W each - 80 W to 200 W), he/she would be better advised to replace all of these with 4 MR16 LEDs of about 5 W each (20 W) (as it was stated in Post #1 that he/she wants to do) and replace the associated Driver(s)/Transformer(s)/Electrical Converter(s) etc. - or whatever makes everyone happy with the term used - to suit the LEDs concerned.
I wasn't around yesterday so just picking this up.
So on the 2 lamps where the bulbs keep on failing, it's likely to be the current transformers that's causing it?
If I get one of these and replace the existing transformer, I would be able to start using LED GU5.3 MR16 lamps? (I was able to work out how to replace the lampholders, so should be able to do this!)
If I go down the GU10 route, is this or this what I need? There's enough slack in the 230v cable without needing any extension. Is this as simple as removing the transformer and connecting the transformer input wire directly to the downlight?
So on the 2 lamps where the bulbs keep on failing, it's likely to be the current transformers that's causing it?
If I get one of these and replace the existing transformer, I would be able to start using LED GU5.3 MR16 lamps? (I was able to work out how to replace the lampholders, so should be able to do this!)
If I go down the GU10 route, is this or this what I need? There's enough slack in the 230v cable without needing any extension. Is this as simple as removing the transformer and connecting the transformer input wire directly to the downlight?
Forget about separate transformers. The choice of LED lamps is far smaller, and you will still have the problems of the useless lampholders failing.
Those are options, if you want to replace the entire fitting.
This style: https://www.toolstation.com/integral-led-evofire-ip65-fire-rated-downlight/p52441 will provide a far better spread of light as the lamp isn't recessed inside a can.
Another option is: https://www.toolstation.com/spare-lampholder/p34667 to convert the existing ones.
Yes. Then you can use any of the vast selection of GU10 LED lamps that are available.
Including smart lamps. Philips Hue GU10s for example.
You may or not be able to convert your existing downlights to mains 230 volt GU10.
It will depend if your existing fittings are bathroom rated, typically this means a glass removable cover over the lamps.
or
Whether a GU10 lamp will sit in the existing fitting nicely - I have had it where a modern GU10 LED lamp is marginally bigger than the old lamp, and wouldn't sit in the 'can' of the fitting.
***
Incidently, it was a shame this thread got interrupted somewhere around post 4 where some of the information though technically correct wasn't at all helpful and perhaps confused the situation for the op.
It will depend if your existing fittings are bathroom rated, typically this means a glass removable cover over the lamps.
or
Whether a GU10 lamp will sit in the existing fitting nicely - I have had it where a modern GU10 LED lamp is marginally bigger than the old lamp, and wouldn't sit in the 'can' of the fitting.
***
Incidently, it was a shame this thread got interrupted somewhere around post 4 where some of the information though technically correct wasn't at all helpful and perhaps confused the situation for the op.
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@flameport @Taylortwocities and @sparkwright have all given good advice, I used a toroidal transformer in last house as the fitting was not really suitable for 230 volt in a bathroom, and I had one spare, this house already had GU10's in some rooms, in the main pods, and I have fitted smart bulbs in some fittings, seems odd that last Smart bulbs had more lumen per watt to standard bulbs, but did cost more.
But whole idea of the 12 volt G5.3 MR16 lamp was the filament was thicker so lasted longer, and the electronic transformer regulated the power again extending their life, yes also was to some extent where they can be used in bathrooms, but most of the advantages of 12 volt went when we stopped using quartz bulbs.
I changed over around 2015 to start with, had a couple of very cheap pound world lamps fail, and one rather expensive replacement for a fluorescent tube, and one G9 which was repaired, but other than that the main thing about LED is they don't seem to fail, I do have a SPD fitted, so that may stop them failing, but it has been a fit and forget, they don't seem to fail, in fact the smart switches have failed more than the LED bulbs.
I have a draw full of old tungsten and compact fluorescent bulbs, all new, and I know I should bin them, but goes against the grain to bin good bulbs.
But whole idea of the 12 volt G5.3 MR16 lamp was the filament was thicker so lasted longer, and the electronic transformer regulated the power again extending their life, yes also was to some extent where they can be used in bathrooms, but most of the advantages of 12 volt went when we stopped using quartz bulbs.
I changed over around 2015 to start with, had a couple of very cheap pound world lamps fail, and one rather expensive replacement for a fluorescent tube, and one G9 which was repaired, but other than that the main thing about LED is they don't seem to fail, I do have a SPD fitted, so that may stop them failing, but it has been a fit and forget, they don't seem to fail, in fact the smart switches have failed more than the LED bulbs.
I have a draw full of old tungsten and compact fluorescent bulbs, all new, and I know I should bin them, but goes against the grain to bin good bulbs.
It was post 5 to be precise with TTC referring to posters as pendants even though good and correct information was provided.
Actually he said pedant - not pendant.
See what I did there?
The business I am talking about was actually post 4.
It’s always somebody else’s fault!
I'll take a look at the size of the existing cut out to try and find a fitting that matches.
The existing MR16 bulb clips into the downlight cover (I couldn't find a picture of these online). Would using this option mean that the GU10 bulb dangles in the existing enclosure or would GU10 fit into the MR16 holder?
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Toolstation also do a fitting that can be used on cutouts between 70 and 100mm.
https://www.toolstation.com/integral-led-70-100mm-cut-out-evofire-ip65-fire-rated-downlight/p74500
https://www.toolstation.com/integral-led-70-100mm-cut-out-evofire-ip65-fire-rated-downlight/p74500
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