Help! Hive not working it’s magic with boiler.

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Hi,

I’ve recently bought a new build house and it has an Ideal Logic Combi ESPI 30 boiler located in the kitchen. I have two thermostats - dual zone one in hall other in Bed 1. These are both ESI ESRPT6C models.

I have wired hive exactly as the internet suggests and this is consistent with how my mind thinks it should be from relevant wiring diagrams.

The boiler fires up when Hive put’s the request in, and the central heating icon shows on the boiler LCD. Things get hot, however.. I don’t think the boiler pump is working - so rads don’t heat up.

I’ve replaced the old thermostats alongside Hive wired in and when I turn it on from these - the boiler fires up and the pump does it’s magic. Heat in rads within 60 seconds.

Is there something with my wiring that’s wrong?

In the boiler, I have added a 5 core heat flex with E-E, L-L and N-N. I then have black to ‘room stat’ 4th terminal and grey in the 5th (where existing black is). This runs to Hive.

In the Hive, E-E, L-L and N-N. I then have black to common (1) and grey to (3) - heating NC.
 

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Good evening Shawdawg, I don’t see grey at the boiler end, so you may have the black in the wrong terminal.
 
This is what I’ve got.
 

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This is what I’ve got.
And whilst I’m thinking about it. Old thermo wired in using general live. I’m trying to do diagram A. Though I’ve tried doing Hive as C and still no joy.
 

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There’s a black wire that’s not fully inserted into the terminal, which may be stopping it working correctly. If you’re struggling for room, obtain some chock block for easiness.
 
There’s a black wire that’s not fully inserted into the terminal, which may be stopping it working correctly. If you’re struggling for room, obtain some chock block for easiness.
That one is from the old thermostat. Just pushed it in for testing only. (It does get rads warm)
 
Having gone over your original post, can you answer the following?

Did you link the zones, or purchase x2 hives for both zones?
You mentioned everything gets hot, but then you suspect the pump and rads don’t get hot?
Rads heat in 60 seconds, then question the wiring?
I’m a little confused now, because it’s either the hive isn’t switching on/off, or the rads don’t heat up?
 
Having gone over your original post, can you answer the following?

Did you link the zones, or purchase x2 hives for both zones?
You mentioned everything gets hot, but then you suspect the pump and rads don’t get hot?
Rads heat in 60 seconds, then question the wiring?
I’m a little confused now, because it’s either the hive isn’t switching on/off, or the rads don’t heat up?
Neither. Initially removed both thermostat’s by just insulating the cables and putting a blanking plate over it. Then installing Hive as per normal. So just the single thermostat from Hive.

Yeah, boiler fires up. Rad logo and flame shows on boiler LCD, I can touch pipework (CH-in beneath the pump) and it gets warm - but boiler cycles through not burning itself out getting to 92°C then burner off and flame goes off and it drops to about 50°C before the cycle restarts.

As mentioned, with the old stat when this fires up the boiler rads get warm instantly and when I hold the CH-in pipe beneath the pump, this initially goes cold as water races through but then steadily gets warm as it’s circulated through the system.

Hive definitely turns on. Green solid light when I tap boost and at the same time boiler does all above. Just some reason it doesn’t seem to push water to rads. I’m assuming it’s pump related, but maybe it is something different. I’m just totally flummoxed!
 
Neither. Initially removed both thermostat’s by just insulating the cables and putting a blanking plate over it. Then installing Hive as per normal. So just the single thermostat from Hive.

Yeah, boiler fires up. Rad logo and flame shows on boiler LCD, I can touch pipework (CH-in beneath the pump) and it gets warm - but boiler cycles through not burning itself out getting to 92°C then burner off and flame goes off and it drops to about 50°C before the cycle restarts.

As mentioned, with the old stat when this fires up the boiler rads get warm instantly and when I hold the CH-in pipe beneath the pump, this initially goes cold as water races through but then steadily gets warm as it’s circulated through the system.

Hive definitely turns on. Green solid light when I tap boost and at the same time boiler does all above. Just some reason it doesn’t seem to push water to rads. I’m assuming it’s pump related, but maybe it is something different. I’m just totally flummoxed!
This is the installation manual for the boiler. Wiring diagram on page 34. https://idealheating.com/uploads/do...-Installation-And-Servicing-222353-1_inst.pdf
 
Right, my apologies, I’ve missed it initially :oops: you can’t just wire the hive in and expect it to work when you have zone valves, unless you connect it up to the zone valves or decommission the zone valves. This is why it’ll work on the old the thermostats.
 
Right, my apologies, I’ve missed it initially :oops: you can’t just wire the hive in and expect it to work when you have zone valves, unless you connect it up to the zone valves or decommission the zone valves. This is why it’ll work on the old the thermostats.
Oh, this is the issue? So each thermostat upstairs works independently? I just assumed as soon as one of them hit the temp it’d turn all heating off.
 
Oh, this is the issue? So each thermostat upstairs works independently? I just assumed as soon as one of them hit the temp it’d turn all heating off.
I don’t think I have zone valves unless they’re hidden away? I have a 2 bed semi with a combi boiler.
 
I’ve recently bought a new build house and it has an Ideal Logic Combi ESPI 30 boiler located in the kitchen. I have two thermostats - dual zone one in hall other in Bed 1. These are both ESI ESRPT6C models.

I don’t think I have zone valves unless they’re hidden away? I have a 2 bed semi with a combi boiler.

I’ve had flats with zone valves in them. If you don’t have zone valves, then you may just need to link the switch wires together from removing the old stats. However you mentioned x2 thermostats, which will need separation, by zone valves.
 

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