Does anyone know what he wants to do?
What tool to use to cut a notch in a steel beam
- Thread starter Yukster
- Start date
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I drilled three holes side by side and the plan is to file it into a rectangle hole. Your right for one hole it would be too big
I'm crating a channel where I can run cables along the beam cavity to tidy up cables, see my original post.
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D
Deleted member 174758
Your holes really should have overlapped. Only thing I can think of now is to use a small four square (rectangular) file or possibly a 3 square (triangular) file to open the holes up by filing sideways. It would probably be best to look for a bastard cut (very coarse, fast cutting) file to get the job done quickly. It needs to be small enough to fit into the holes you have drilled. What size were they?
BTW, as you are a filing novice, I'll tell you now that most files are supplied without handles (Bahco/Sandvik are an exception) and need an appropriate size handle (e.g. a Python handle, etc) to be fitted before use - never, ever use a file or wood rasp without a handle fitted, just gripping the file's tang, because one slip and that tang can go a heck of a long way into the ball of the hand where you have a lot of nerves, so not only painful, but also potentially debilitating
BTW, as you are a filing novice, I'll tell you now that most files are supplied without handles (Bahco/Sandvik are an exception) and need an appropriate size handle (e.g. a Python handle, etc) to be fitted before use - never, ever use a file or wood rasp without a handle fitted, just gripping the file's tang, because one slip and that tang can go a heck of a long way into the ball of the hand where you have a lot of nerves, so not only painful, but also potentially debilitating
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Or past the ball of your hand and end up embedded deep into your wrist where you have masses of veins feeding your fingers and thumb. If you don't die from blood loss you can certainly lose the use of your hand, or even your hand, through nerve/tendon/ligament damage.
I think it's high time manufacturers designed a tang that was shaped like a smooth handle and maybe covered in a latex coating for comfort. There is no need in this day and age to have a sharp tang that you have to cover with a separate handle.
D
Deleted member 174758
I thought that was one of the original USPs for Bahco files - the fact that they come with a handle ready-formed on thev tang.
BTW the point about the tang being tapered is that unless it is tapered it isn't possible to get a tight friction fit in the hole in a conventional wooden handle. Same applies to traditional wooden handles on wood chisels
BTW the point about the tang being tapered is that unless it is tapered it isn't possible to get a tight friction fit in the hole in a conventional wooden handle. Same applies to traditional wooden handles on wood chisels
The holes are overlapping and the files have handles. The file set I ordered, see link above to the actual product, include a triangular, flat and half round files, the latter is a bastard cut. I think I'll be okay getting this done
D
Deleted member 174758
Ah well, you did say "side by side"...
...not overlapping
...not overlapping
You are correct. I didn't use the right term.
D
Deleted member 174758
If they are overlapping you can probably do the job with a flat file
And many other materials.
Yes, feet come to mind
D
Deleted member 174758
Woody not just by name, then. Do you call it pruning?
You might also find a junior hacksaw useful.
I have one and I tried to use it on the steel beam. It barely scratched it
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