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Can you have a power factor of 1.5? I thought under unity?
LED 12 W ES Bulbs
- Thread starter bolo 2
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My error. I should have added that the meter used to measure the power consumed was confused by the driver's capacitive input circuit.
ok its only a cheap energenie plug in meter but i never thought it was lying
yes i realise they are not the most accurate in the world and on low wattage may be wildly inaccurate but would assume the inaccuracy would be the same or similar so near enough to compare apples with apples rather than apples to pears but am open enough to listen and learn
I buy Philips LED lamps where possible as I've found them to be reliable and very decent light output, here is where I get mine from and I've linked directly to a suitable lamp for you:
https://theledspecialist.co.uk/philips-corepro-ledbulb-nd-13-100w-a60-e27-827.html
https://theledspecialist.co.uk/philips-corepro-ledbulb-nd-13-100w-a60-e27-827.html
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I also use Energenie plug in power meters, would not call them cheap, However it shows average today, current usage, resent usage, average hourly usage, average daily usage. And it tends to round off the corners.
I use them to tell me when my battery is charged, and I know the charger is zero, 0.1, 0.8, 3, or 3.8 amp charge rate, so when it shows a slope likely lost wifi connection.
I also use one to switch on AC in the summer, as I can see if just fan running or if fan and compressor is running, if former then room clearly cool enough. And also to check freezer. And if beer is taking heat, that is most important. But the much cheaper stand alone energy monitor shows power factor, amps, volts, watts, etc. So tells me a lot more, but I have to physically read what it says.
But the big question, does it really matter? Once you have got it, too late to see how much light it gives out, or how much power it uses, and as said since the angle of light leaving the bulb changes between tungsten and LED, even if exactly the same lumen the way it lights the room will vary, I like the bulb base down shining onto the ceiling as it defuses the light giving soft shadows no harsh.
With tungsten I use Pearl, same reason, but stock running low, and not seen Pearl for sale for ages.
I use them to tell me when my battery is charged, and I know the charger is zero, 0.1, 0.8, 3, or 3.8 amp charge rate, so when it shows a slope likely lost wifi connection. I also use one to switch on AC in the summer, as I can see if just fan running or if fan and compressor is running, if former then room clearly cool enough. And also to check freezer. And if beer is taking heat, that is most important. But the much cheaper stand alone energy monitor shows power factor, amps, volts, watts, etc. So tells me a lot more, but I have to physically read what it says.
But the big question, does it really matter? Once you have got it, too late to see how much light it gives out, or how much power it uses, and as said since the angle of light leaving the bulb changes between tungsten and LED, even if exactly the same lumen the way it lights the room will vary, I like the bulb base down shining onto the ceiling as it defuses the light giving soft shadows no harsh.
With tungsten I use Pearl, same reason, but stock running low, and not seen Pearl for sale for ages.
thanks it doesnt say the lumins value ??
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I bought 16 Philips golf ball CFL for my dinning and living room in the last house, they were rotten, after a year ½ failed and the cheap bulbs from homebargains lasted three times longer, I had always thought Philips were good, but seems no longer, and with G9
the small LED from local shop did allow covers to be fitted, but the cheap internet one did not flash or flicker, so in real terms the cheap one again was far better.My son seems to think his GU10 bulbs have failed due to using cheap toolstation bulbs, but also had a LED 5 foot tube fail in same room, so maybe a poor switch causing spikes?
Homebargains and B&M Bargains LED bulbs seem to have lasted well for me.
Today a Smart bulb failed, however so much easier to swap a smart bulb than smart switch, I will still go for smart bulbs not switches in the future.
Put the code into google and all the info is on the philips site
https://www.lighting.philips.co.uk/...bulbs/corepro-ledbulb/929001234564_EU/product
I've got a (growing!) pile of dead CED branded bulbs, think I bought them 4 years ago. Various other cheap one too. Philips have lasted ok though, they're older.
"But the big question, does it really matter? Once you have got it, too late to see how much light it gives out, or how much power it uses, and as said since the angle of light leaving the bulb changes between tungsten and LED, even if exactly the same lumen the way it lights the room will vary, I like the bulb base down shining onto the ceiling as it defuses the light giving soft shadows no harsh."
on that point i will have bulbs all round the house and some spares so the one that gives out the perceived best lumins for watts will be above my head as its on 16-18 hours a day at this time off year with bulbs in rooms according to use and watts used
and the worst performers in a box untill needed
on that point i will have bulbs all round the house and some spares so the one that gives out the perceived best lumins for watts will be above my head as its on 16-18 hours a day at this time off year with bulbs in rooms according to use and watts used
and the worst performers in a box untill needed
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@big-all has really said it. Does it really matter? Expensive or cheap does no longer seem to relate to good and bad, so you don't want draws or cupboards full of spares, so what ever is sold in the cheap shop near you is what you buy. OK I will buy bulbs from Lidi, but I would not go to Lidi for bulbs as they are not a stock item, so if I want a bulb now I would go to B&M Bargains as they keep bulbs as a stock items and are the nearest cheap shop to me.
Only when local shops can't supply a good bulb will I use internet, as with the G9 bulbs.
Only when local shops can't supply a good bulb will I use internet, as with the G9 bulbs.
to be honest i overdoo everything
if i have a different task to keep me occupied, i wont be quite so anal about light bulbs
Re the "non-zero power factor" I think perhaps you meant 'non-unity power factor' : zero PF = zero watts unity PF = zero VAR
Last edited:
Despite the fact that I couldn’t see any mention of lumens in Dannyboi’s link, I’ve decided that I’ll go for the bulbs he suggests.
BTW, I thought that I’d just asked a simple question requiring a simple answer but judging by the response I now know that there is no such thing as a simple question- only a simple questioner
Looking at image of box
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Philips-Co...rds=philips+corepro+led&qid=1636810782&sr=8-5
If this is the same...
1521 lm
SFK
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Philips-Co...rds=philips+corepro+led&qid=1636810782&sr=8-5
If this is the same...
1521 lm
SFK
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