Replacing a Filling Loop.... How?

If you are regularly losing pressure then you have a problem that needs attention other than the filling loop. What does pressure rise to when heating has been on for a while.
Have you checked the prv pipe outside for water leaking out of it ?
 
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terryplumb said:
If you are regularly losing pressure then you have a problem that needs attention other than the filling loop. What does pressure rise to when heating has been on for a while.
Have you checked the prv pipe outside for water leaking out of it ?
Click to expand...
is that the pipe at the top of the big damp stain on the wall ? :LOL::LOL::LOL:
 
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CBW said:
Yes turn off the incoming main, for the cold side. For the heating side, keep the braided hose attached and then open the black tap and drain into a suitable receptacle. You may need paste or ptfe tape on the olives. Then replace the whole valves etc, and re- pressurise the boiler.
Click to expand...
Hi I have a similar issue with the filling loop. I have underfloor heating, but I am a bit unsure if I can just follow this approach. Do you know if by removing the filling loop the water in the underfloor heating would be affected?

It may be simpler than I think, but I dont want to take any chances that could make things worse.

I can post pictures of the system to show how pipes are attached.
 
Removing a filling loop shouldn’t affect anything I’d the valves are close off. Hth
 
Thank you that helps.

Here is a picture of the system. I believe the valves would be closed when the system is off as you said.



Do you know how much water will come out of the boiler? Just wondering if a bucket is enough.
 

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terryplumb said:
Why are you changing your filling loop ?
Click to expand...
Regularly losing pressure. I noticed there is a leakage at the end that connects to the boiler. Although it may be something else less obvious I am thinking simple, change this connector and see if the pressure issue continues.

The self release valve inside the boiler was changed, but that didnt change the issue. If the connector doesn’t fix it then expansion tank will be next.

Thoughts?
 
Is the leak where the isolation valve with black handle joins to the copper pipe ( at the chrome hexagonal nut )?
If it is you could try to tighten that nut a little, but you should hold the valve body with a spanner ,or grips,to prevent the valve from turning whilst tightening the nut with a second spanner.
 
Actually is leaking from the isolation valve at the top where the black plastic bit is. There is a screw on top, but that is to tighten up the plastic.

IMG_8012.jpeg
 
1. Sometimes when those isolation valves leak from the spindle, turning the spindle open - closed - open and so on will clear the problem. However, if it doesn't, it may make the leak worse.
2. The circled valve is connected to the boiler's return pipe.
2.1 In theory, removing that valve could release all the water in the system - much more than a bucketful.
2.2 On the other hand, provided there are no other leaks on the system, it should create a partial vacuum after releasing, say, two or three litres.
2.3 As a check, turn the valve off, release system pressure by bleeding a radiator, and remove the flexible pipe from the left hand end, then open the valve again with a bucket beneath the open end. If you are lucky, the flow will stop (or at least slow to a small trickle) and you can remove and replace the valve. If unlucky, you can close the valve again and replace the flexi.
2.4 Use a decent quality valve like a Pegler as a replacement to reduce the chances of a recurrence.
 
oldbuffer said:
1. Sometimes when those isolation valves leak from the spindle, turning the spindle open - closed - open and so on will clear the problem. However, if it doesn't, it may make the leak worse.
2. The circled valve is connected to the boiler's return pipe.
2.1 In theory, removing that valve could release all the water in the system - much more than a bucketful.
2.2 On the other hand, provided there are no other leaks on the system, it should create a partial vacuum after releasing, say, two or three litres.
2.3 As a check, turn the valve off, release system pressure by bleeding a radiator, and remove the flexible pipe from the left hand end, then open the valve again with a bucket beneath the open end. If you are lucky, the flow will stop (or at least slow to a small trickle) and you can remove and replace the valve. If unlucky, you can close the valve again and replace the flexi.
2.4 Use a decent quality valve like a Pegler as a replacement to reduce the chances of a recurrence.
Click to expand...
Thanks oldbuffer. The system is underfloor heating. No radiators available.

I found this isolation valve online. Thoughts?

www.screwfix.com

Pegler Tee Ball Valve Blue 15mm - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. PN16 rated. ¼ turn operation. Full bore. For water, steam, oil and air. Can be locked open or closed by removing handle and rotating 180°. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.
www.screwfix.com www.screwfix.com
 
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