Chipboard floor - best to replace?

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I've foolishly just started a DIY bathroom refurb, have done some tiling, some plumbing etc in bit and pieces but all at once is a new experience.

Have spent the last few days getting the old wall tiles off, prepping the walls for plasterboard/hardiebacker around the shower and fixing a couple of plumbing issues, but have just started lifting the floor tiles and they're on chipboard.

Not keen on levelling compound then ply and tiling as it'll raise the floor level too much, so is the only real option for a decent job pulling it up and fitting new 18mm ply?
 
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Also, for the walls, i'm going to dot and dab plasterboard onto the brick/plaster and then put hardiebacker on top of that. hardiebacker suggest to use screws into batons as well as adhesive when going onto plasterboard, but i don't have batons to fix onto. would long masonry screws which go into the brick be ok instead?
 
hardie backer over pb is pointless. just tile to the pb. bond your hardiebacker straight to the wall in wet areas and screw it through the adhesive .
As for the floor i’d leave the original chipboard and bond and screw no more ply as per nmp best practice.
 
have just started lifting the floor tiles and they're on chipboard.

Not keen on levelling compound then ply and tiling as it'll raise the floor level too much, so is the only real option for a decent job pulling it up and fitting new 18mm ply?

chipboard is not a very good material for floors, and especially unsuitable for rooms that contain water

rip it up and lay ply. Put struts (noggins) under all unsupported joints and cuts.
22mm or 25mm is better than 18mm
 
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hardie backer over pb is pointless. just tile to the pb. bond your hardiebacker straight to the wall in wet areas and screw it through the adhesive .
As for the floor i’d leave the original chipboard and bond and screw no more ply as per nmp best practice.

The reason for the plasterboard was that the bottom 1400mm of the wall is recessed and did previously have dot and dab plasterboard on it. That all came off during prep so I was going to re do that section with plasterboard to make it flush, and then apply hardiebacker to the flush wall. It's not deep enough to frame it, and the room is really narrow so I can really frame the whole wall out either.
 
expensive way to go . pb adhesive would suffice.
 
expensive way to go . pb adhesive would suffice.

If adhesive on its own is good enough I'm happy with that, was only thinking about screws as on the hardiebacker website they always seem to recommend screwing it in too
 
you could screw through the hardiebacker where the adhesive is. Some people say screw the pb as well which I think is pointless because you will have drilled it and damaged the paper and lost any strength a screw would provide.
some will disagree.
 

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