Did you know there are appliances often fitted that have an input around 24kw and that is not taking into consideration any radiators.
Huge gas pressure drop between meter and boiler. Help!
- Thread starter davecon70
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Did you know there are appliances often fitted that have an input around 24kw and that is not taking into consideration any radiators.
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But its not an argument. Its his lawful duty to install the appliance safely and to spec. There's no guessing. You test it, it doesn't pass, then it can't be commissioned.
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It would want to be huge (or uninsulated) for a 30kw boiler no?
Mine is ancient and 15kw is more than ample for this semi-d.
The gas bill must be quite something.
Edit: if spec'd properly. I read that installers have a habit of vastly over sizing boilers.
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I didn't say it was much of a case, just something that the installer might try to argue.
Yeah, that would be my option a).
I seem to remember we discussed this at some length in a thread a few weeks ago Harry
Deary me .... are we seriously up to 11 pages with this FFS
Is there really any need for it? I'm sure the OP is seriously lost now ... or maybe not
Is there really any need for it? I'm sure the OP is seriously lost now ... or maybe not
You could explain the benchmark form wasn't completed properly, and there appears to be excessive pressure drop.
I think he should install a pressure tapping point on the gas pipe just before the boiler, and then do a thorough pressure drop test.
Depending on the results, you could look at the options in #115 (there have been a couple of comments).
For background, do you know the output of the previous boiler?
Deary me .... are we seriously up to 11 pages with this FFS
Is there really any need for it? I'm sure the OP is seriously lost now ... or maybe not
You are correct. 11 pages of mainly guesswork and verbal diarrhoea.
It is impossible for anyone to read through this and make sense of it.
Whether or not it condenses also depends on the rad area. If the rads are too small, in cold weather the water temperature to give adequate heating will be too high for condensation.
I don't think the control-stat setting is that critical, as when the weather is moderately cold the roomstat is satisfied and switches off the boiler before control-stat temperature is reached. Up to that point, flow and return temperatures settle at what is needed to dissipate the boiler output, which could allow condensation. Maybe a bit different with a modulating boiler, but that's how I see it. I have W-plan and the control-stat setting is never reached on CH, only on HW.
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Yes, but any more suggestions in response to the OP's #134? That might help him when the guy comes tomorrow.
How many times do you want it repeating.?
The pipework is either seriously restricted or, more likely, is undersized.
The false figures imply that he either knew it was wrong or did not bother to consider it.
I cannot see post numbers but on page 2 the OP describes the pipe run. Most of it is concealed. It seems likely that the first part is iron . If it is most of the rest will be, at least until it leaves the floor and enters the concealed wall. It exits the wall in 15mm, so it may well be the snr all the way down - the previous demand was about 50% of the current and was probably okay.
Any decent installer would know visually that there is an issue.
The OP needs to decide what he wants out of this and demand accordingly.
is the house pre 1970?
Can the Op Accurately measure the diameter of the iron, and maybe post a photo?
That is the point. I as a heating engineer will take into consideration system configuration whereas a lay person may not.
Another hint- it is a system boiler perhaps?
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