Flush mounting a wooden box to a wall

I need to mount a wooden box flush to a plastered wall.

Ideally I need to mount the box, then have some sort of adjustment to close up the gap to the wall.

The front of the box is closed so there is no access to use the typical hangers used on kitchen cupboards. This is because those as I understand it are tightened up from inside the cupboard to close the unit up to the wall.

I could make a couple of drill holes in the top of the box, but I couldn't find any sort of hangers that allowed adjustment from the top.

Does anyone have any ideas how I could solve this problem?

Having only recently suggested this on another thread (...and not being shouted at for it being a terrible idea! ), have you considered a French Cleat?

Flush mounts.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/flush-mo...VDbrtCh1TBAKbEAQYAyABEgKHgfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Split battens (French cleat is an American term, surely?) require the back of the wall to be inset by the exact same depth as the thickness of the split batten, or slightly more (1 to 2mm, no more). They also require the wall to be pretty flat, thus:



For clarity I've coloured the component which is fixed to the back of the box pink, and the components which fix to the wall green.

They aren't a terrible idea, but to get a flush fit you do need to inset the back of the item you are installing them onto (which was the issue last time...) not flat on the back of the box as shown above. For larger boxes you may need two split battens (one near the top, one near the bottom) of the same thickness. If using multiple split battens it is essential that the all the battens on the wall are coplanar to get a tight fit:

foxhole said:

Flush mounts.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/flush-mo...VDbrtCh1TBAKbEAQYAyABEgKHgfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Click to expand...

Designed to work on a flat surface, such as a plywood back board. From experience these are very awkward to get to work right on a plasterboard wall unless there is a reliable patress behind the PB

Thanks for the suggestions. The wall will be newly plastered but not sure it will then be level enough for that to work.

It's a shame there isn't some sort of fixing where I could make a hole in the top of the box which wouldn't be visible and then have some sort of adjustment to bring the box closer to the wall.

The only other though I had was to put a batten on the wall, lift the box on (the back could be open) and then put some screws in the top to hold it in place.

Lamentable said:

Thanks for the suggestions. The wall will be newly plastered but not sure it will then be level enough for that to work.

It's a shame there isn't some sort of fixing where I could make a hole in the top of the box which wouldn't be visible and then have some sort of adjustment to bring the box closer to the wall.

The only other though I had was to put a batten on the wall, lift the box on (the back could be open) and then put some screws in the top to hold it in place.

Click to expand...

The flush mount I link too don’t require any adjustments and will achieve what you want.Or key hole plates will also work.

Lamentable said:

The only other though I had was to put a batten on the wall, lift the box on (the back could be open) and then put some screws in the top to hold it in place.

Click to expand...

That will work, albeit not quite as well. Joiners have been using split battens for a very long time because they work, you can make-up your own on site and they are cheap. A big plus of using split battens is that they often don't require any fixings to secure them - the weight of the object causes them to slide down and pull in to the wall.

I detest the metal fixings on PB having had endless problems with them on a couple of builds where the dryliners hadn't installed any timber pattress behind the plasterboard (modular wall system in student accommodation). That made getting them into the right place was difficult as we were forced into using theose drillable PB fixing which never end up quite where you want them, especially as the PB was slightly bowed as well. Eventually we got the designer to do the job properly in a way that could be installed as required. As I stated - they are designed for use on a flat timber or other solid materials not PB. In addition if you want a true flush back with those you still need to inset the back something like 2 to 3mm

It's an interesting idea and I hadn't seen it before.
How do I cut the bevel onto the batten?
I do have a circular saw that you can set a bevel angle onto.

That's one way, angle about 15 to 25° (it really isn't critical). In my experience quite a few timber yards either hold split batten as a stock item or will bevel rip something like ex-4 x 1in PSE down for you. It isn't really a B&Q thing