Installing limestone tiles - any tricks of the trade?

siuz · 18 Feb 2007

Having ordered a crate of 400mm x 400mm x 120mm of limestone tiles for the kitchen diner, I wondered if anyone has any tips or wise words for installation.

The floor area is approx 20sqm and is half concrete and half floorboards. I'm looking to get down 6mm ply and put down undertile heating before starting any tiling.

What sealant/impregnator would you reccomend? I've been told white grout/adhesive otherwise the tiles could get discolouration. Any particular brand best for job?

The tile supplier recommended a solvent based sealant rather than water based. What are the pros and cons of both? Would the solvent based sealant make it easier for maintanance?

A tiler has quoted 3 day's work for this (just tiling - no prep) but I'm thinking it's perhaps an ok DIY job. Any thoughts?

Also, ongoing... would the pros specifically recommend a ph neutral cleaner for day-to-day cleaning? (Can't get a definitive answer!)

Thx in advance

Jasonb · 18 Feb 2007

6mm ply is totally inadequate for a natural stone product either use 15mm ply or better still stick 12mm Aquapanel to the floor with flexible tile adhesive also screwing to the area with floorboards and ensuring that the boards bridge the junction between conc/timber.

I tend to use Lithofin products which are solvent based something like "stainstop" will do if you want to keep the matt look of the stone. If you prefer a sheen and a more intense colour then "stainstop plus" this will look like the tile when wetted.

A white flexible adhesive will not ghost through the stone but an off white grout looks better (depending on shade of stone) than brilliant white which won't stay that way.

Lithofin "easy care" would be compatible with the above sealers.

If you have not tiled much before I would get a pro in to do it, time wise sounds about right.

Jason

siuz · 19 Feb 2007

Thanks Jason for your reply... great to get experienced advice.

Hmmm… I think 6mm ply was used upstairs in our bathroom where travertine was installed. Is this going to be a problem in your opinion? (floor space much smaller with ply on top of pretty level floorboards). Well, I’m a bit worried now…!

I will take a look at the Lithofin range of products – the ‘stainstop’ one that you mention sounds good. I take it that a solvent based product is superior to a water based product then?

siuz · 19 Feb 2007

I'm a bit worried that 15mm ply might raise the floor level a bit too high. Obviously we'll be taking off the existing tiles in the kitchen area and the floor covering from the dining area, but then we will also adding on some 30mm on top of that.

I'm thinking it might mean that we would need to lop off the bottom of the doors (french doors, back door, and interior door

) and make the skirting boards look a bit stingy!

Will aquaboard be the best solution due to thickness? Is it expensive??

Any further advice much appreciated.

Jasonb · 19 Feb 2007

If height is a problem remove your old floorboards and replace with 25mm WBP ply with additional nogging under any joints, screw these to joists at 200mm centers.

This will probably leave the conc floor about 6mm lower, stick 6mm aquapanel thermal to this with tile adhesive.

Place a tile joint over the conc/timber junction and treat as an expansion joint.

Jason

siuz · 19 Feb 2007

Jason,

Thanks for your assistance on our flooring questions - I was hoping you could help us some more.

As you are aware I have a timber/concrete adjoining floor and i am concerned with damproofing and the possibility of this deteriorating any plywood should this be laid over the concrete.

Can you advise any solutions to this type of problem? Is aquapanel the solution ?

How can you test this concrete for damp ?

If it is not possible to fit the plywood across the concrete, I will have an 18mm gap to make up - What type of damp proof membrane/levelling compound would you suggest could make the gap up?

Appreciate your help... thx again in advance

Jasonb · 20 Feb 2007

If you feel there is a possible damp problem then this will need to be sorted out first as even with Aquapanel any moisture coming from the ground will work its way through to the travatine and may cause staining.

You can hire a damp meter from someone like HSS for about £10 a day which will soon tel you if there is a problem.

If there is it can be cured by a paint on bitumen based coating prior to boarding & tiling. Also make sure there is proper ventilation below the timber floor.

Are you talking about an 18mm horizontal gap or an 18mm difference in height between the two floors?

Jason

siuz · 21 Feb 2007

Cheers Jason, many thx for replying.

I had a second tiler around last night and we spoke about the prep work that would be needed. He looked at the floor and said that he would recommend going for 18mm ply to replace the floorboards (same thickness as the current floorboards) and that he didn't think that the concrete would be a problem (re: damp).

Is 18mm adequate?

Although he's still to come back to me with a cost, he said that it would be £80-£90 a SQM. I think this is just labour (no prep work)! Seems a bit expensive for Cheshire...?

Also, I mentioned the Lithofin stuff and he said he uses HG, and that's what he would use for the limestone....

Any thoughts on the above? Does this sound good enough? Expensive?

(BTW, really appreciate all your comments so far and hope that I haven't put you out

)

Jasonb · 21 Feb 2007

18mm will most likely be OK without seeing the floor, joist size, span & spacing its hard to say

That sounds high for just labour, are you sure it does not include adhesive, grout & sealer?

HG should be fine.

Jason

siuz · 21 Feb 2007

Jason

You are a star for answering all my pondering questions. Many thx.

Very good to have reassurance. What did we do before t'internet!!!!

Anyway, just to pick your brains again (sorry!):

Does it make any difference how many times you seal the tiles? Also, if we use a flexible adhesive, apart from the cosmetic aspect, what gap would you recommend between the tiles (for grout)... 2mm? Or does it not make any difference?

Again, you are a saint for answering my Q's.

Thx

Jasonb · 22 Feb 2007

Amount of coats will depend on what sealer/impregnator you end up using with the Lithofin I usually do two coats befor egrouting and two after but it can vary depending on the stone.

I'd go 3-4mm for the grout space, 2mm will require tiles that are very evenly callibrated (exactly the sme size)

Jason

siuz · 26 Feb 2007

That's great, cheers for your help.

Really helpful

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Installing limestone tiles - any tricks of the trade?

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