Murrey Walker eat your heart out.
Alpha boiler frequently no H/W
- Thread starter apracing
- Start date
Murrey Walker eat your heart out.
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Well I just opened the hot water tap (with the CH off), and the boiler didn't operate.
So I took a close look at that switch, and waggled it around. There was a bit of clicking on and off, with the boiler seemingly confused as to what it should be doing, before it finally decided to light up (after a bit more waggling).
Looking closely, its simple to replace the microswitch although it appears fine. Its the black circular piece with the white plastic push rod thats difficult, and I'd need help removing that. Is that the diaphragm? Because that seems to be the problem with all the clicking thats going on.
So I took a close look at that switch, and waggled it around. There was a bit of clicking on and off, with the boiler seemingly confused as to what it should be doing, before it finally decided to light up (after a bit more waggling).
Looking closely, its simple to replace the microswitch although it appears fine. Its the black circular piece with the white plastic push rod thats difficult, and I'd need help removing that. Is that the diaphragm? Because that seems to be the problem with all the clicking thats going on.
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I just noticed - the black circular piece doesn't completely encircle the pipe:
The microswitch pops out of that retaining clip. Is the black circular clip just for the microswitch to be held onto the pipe, or does it contain any more parts that are replaceable?
The microswitch pops out of that retaining clip. Is the black circular clip just for the microswitch to be held onto the pipe, or does it contain any more parts that are replaceable?
I found some technical info on page 23 of this manual
http://www.harrian.com/Prod_info/info/alpha/cb24_28.pdf
Fig.23 shows the area in detail.
I'm wondering if I should remove that clip and give it a good cleaning/oil.
Page 26 also gives more details on the design and construction of the valve.
http://www.harrian.com/Prod_info/info/alpha/cb24_28.pdf
Fig.23 shows the area in detail.
I'm wondering if I should remove that clip and give it a good cleaning/oil.
Page 26 also gives more details on the design and construction of the valve.
Micro switch has to be in correct position as otherwise the white prong thingy has nowhere to prong
If I remeber correctly on this model you have to remove DHW h/exchanger to remove and replace diaphragm. Check M I carefully
If I remeber correctly on this model you have to remove DHW h/exchanger to remove and replace diaphragm. Check M I carefully
http://www.harrian.com/[b]Prod[/b]_info/info/alpha/cb24_28.pdf
Thats even better !
In addition to the "white sprung prong" you now have a "Prod" !
It sounds to me as if the diaphragm has failed and is not operating the white push rod or "white sprung prong" as Paul calls it. As the appointed Alfa Agent in Scarborough after careful selection from over 100 applicants for the post then he must know!
Its a rather involved task to replace the diaphragm on that model but achievable if you take great care and record each step in turn so you can repeat it in reverse on assembly.
Tony
PS I am sure Paul must know my very old G3 friend in Scarborough who used to work in C & W with the ex-wife with the big prongs.
Thats even better !
In addition to the "white sprung prong" you now have a "Prod" !
It sounds to me as if the diaphragm has failed and is not operating the white push rod or "white sprung prong" as Paul calls it. As the appointed Alfa Agent in Scarborough after careful selection from over 100 applicants for the post then he must know!
Its a rather involved task to replace the diaphragm on that model but achievable if you take great care and record each step in turn so you can repeat it in reverse on assembly.
Tony
PS I am sure Paul must know my very old G3 friend in Scarborough who used to work in C & W with the ex-wife with the big prongs.
Please listen carefully.
When the microswitch is positioned correctly don't waggle it, operate water flow on off on off many times. Listen for the feint click of the microswitch . If you hear the click it is not the diaphram. If you don't it is.
If it is not the diapragm, keep going with the test to ignition sequence many times on off. If it fails to start the pump and fan even once in 100 it is the microswitch.
You need some standard 3/4 in and 1/2 in fibre washers and will probably get away with silicon lube on the old o rings. But there is a full seal kit. Up to you to chance having to do whole job again.
On this boiler intermitent dhw is not normally aps or ntc, it is one of above. But always keep open mind while proving fault.
I used to go to octegenarian g3 club but too busy now. being an amateur seems to be good for long life.
When the microswitch is positioned correctly don't waggle it, operate water flow on off on off many times. Listen for the feint click of the microswitch . If you hear the click it is not the diaphram. If you don't it is.
If it is not the diapragm, keep going with the test to ignition sequence many times on off. If it fails to start the pump and fan even once in 100 it is the microswitch.
You need some standard 3/4 in and 1/2 in fibre washers and will probably get away with silicon lube on the old o rings. But there is a full seal kit. Up to you to chance having to do whole job again.
On this boiler intermitent dhw is not normally aps or ntc, it is one of above. But always keep open mind while proving fault.
I used to go to octegenarian g3 club but too busy now. being an amateur seems to be good for long life.
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