jj4091 said:
Because the TV's will be on the wall - all the peripherals (DVD, SAT etc) will all be centralised in a single room. Suppose it wouldnt need to be a fused spur but thats what was reccomended by TV installer last time I did similar.
Electrics - The plan for the downstairs
- Thread starter dunny
- Start date
Because the TV's will be on the wall - all the peripherals (DVD, SAT etc) will all be centralised in a single room. Suppose it wouldnt need to be a fused spur but thats what was reccomended by TV installer last time I did similar.
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A double socket near each corner is correct; also for walls over 3m long, a double half way along, or otherwise at 2m intervals.
If you put one each side of chimneybreasts, each side of (most suitable) bedhead, dressing table etc that will reduce the number of multiway adaptors
you buy later.
Also one at each end of hall and landing for the hoover and possibly a table light.
One where you will put each phone.
A bunch of them at worktop height where you will have PC, workroom and home office, and in the garage.
The alarms (intruder and fire) should not be on an RCD to reduce the risk of power to them going off.
p.s. having lots of sockets does not mean that will will exceed the circuit loads. It just means you have plenty of choices on where to plug things in. Most electrical appliances (hifi, table lamps, hoover, juicer) use very little electricity and are only on for a fraction of the time, and not all on together. The only heavy loads in domestic use are those with heating elements, especially tumble driers and cooking appliances, but also fan heaters, washers and dish/wrs. Kettles and toasters are high load but only on for a few minutes, unless you are running a B&B.
If you put one each side of chimneybreasts, each side of (most suitable) bedhead, dressing table etc that will reduce the number of multiway adaptors
you buy later.Also one at each end of hall and landing for the hoover and possibly a table light.
One where you will put each phone.
A bunch of them at worktop height where you will have PC, workroom and home office, and in the garage.
The alarms (intruder and fire) should not be on an RCD to reduce the risk of power to them going off.
p.s. having lots of sockets does not mean that will will exceed the circuit loads. It just means you have plenty of choices on where to plug things in. Most electrical appliances (hifi, table lamps, hoover, juicer) use very little electricity and are only on for a fraction of the time, and not all on together. The only heavy loads in domestic use are those with heating elements, especially tumble driers and cooking appliances, but also fan heaters, washers and dish/wrs. Kettles and toasters are high load but only on for a few minutes, unless you are running a B&B.
Do you have any architects plans of the proposed floor layout?
This would give us a massive advantage so we gan get a better idea of what your requirements are.
The last big barn conversion I did had around 35 circuits leaving the CU.
We installed a three phase board fitted with a single phasing kit. (It was a hager )
There were alot of circuits as there were lots of dedicated radials for things like heating boilers, under floor heating, alarm, outside lighting, door entry & gates, non-RCD fridge socket, etc.....
This would give us a massive advantage so we gan get a better idea of what your requirements are.
The last big barn conversion I did had around 35 circuits leaving the CU.
We installed a three phase board fitted with a single phasing kit. (It was a hager
)There were alot of circuits as there were lots of dedicated radials for things like heating boilers, under floor heating, alarm, outside lighting, door entry & gates, non-RCD fridge socket, etc.....
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I do have the architects plans but no idea how I would reduce them. I have scrapped some of the layout that the previous owner was planning. There is a set of plans for where sockets and lights where meant to be going but they no longer make sense as the rooms have changed.
I have taken the basic floor layout plan, copied it onto bits of A4 and taped it back together. I have been marking that up with my own key (with my sons felt tip pens!!!).
I am going to the barn today partly to check if my proposals will work. I will be getting a spark to do the install but I want to be able to tell him exactly what I want. The last time I did a refurb I got was I was given !!!!
I built an extension on the side of the house we are in now which was almost the size of the existing house and I did all the new electrics myself - got it certified by a spark later who found no problems.
BUT - this job is too big for me, there is too much to do, stuff that I dont know I dont know, and shouldnt be tackled by a DIYer.
D
I have taken the basic floor layout plan, copied it onto bits of A4 and taped it back together. I have been marking that up with my own key (with my sons felt tip pens!!!).
I am going to the barn today partly to check if my proposals will work. I will be getting a spark to do the install but I want to be able to tell him exactly what I want. The last time I did a refurb I got was I was given !!!!
I built an extension on the side of the house we are in now which was almost the size of the existing house and I did all the new electrics myself - got it certified by a spark later who found no problems.
BUT - this job is too big for me, there is too much to do, stuff that I dont know I dont know, and shouldnt be tackled by a DIYer.
D
Bet you had a job bending the diversity factors around to bring the calculated load down to .. 100Amps was it....?RF Lighting said:
We have often used MEM TP boards with a single phase conversion kit.
You can then have a single phase DB that can have from 12 (4x3) to 72 ways!
RCBO's would be required of course - but just on the GND floor if trying to keep cost down.
We have also fitted some great audio kit.
Cloud multi zone mixers and mutli zone amps are great, and pair up well with the JBL Control ceiling speakers - the larger ones. You can have a single gang sized plate on the wall of each room for volume and source.
You can then have a single phase DB that can have from 12 (4x3) to 72 ways!
RCBO's would be required of course - but just on the GND floor if trying to keep cost down.
We have also fitted some great audio kit.
Cloud multi zone mixers and mutli zone amps are great, and pair up well with the JBL Control ceiling speakers - the larger ones. You can have a single gang sized plate on the wall of each room for volume and source.
Lectrician said:
I am planning on going for the Opus multi-room kit with an additional audio unit that will give me 8 zones. I am adding the video distribution unit that will give me TV,DVD etc in multiple rooms. Downside is that the speakers dont have seperate amplification.
What sort of cost is the Cloud multi zone??
D
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