PIRs

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I'm looking to buy some for the alarm system and need to know of a decent quality type. Have looked around but can't figure if I need the the dual tech ones or if the normal ones will suffice. I will need a couple for the kitchen and bathroom, and in a few cases the PIR location will be directly opposite large windows or close to lighting. I would like them to have an LED indicator and be of the type that indicates having been triggered should it be in a zone with others. It really is a case of me not wanting to spend unnecessarily.

Regarding these type of internal detectors, do they trigger if a fly/spider goes across the lens?....and would people or lights moving across the outside of a window set them off?
 
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Right simple PIR rules : don't face them towards windows, PIR's ok in most rooms , Dual tecs for Kitchens Garages and Bathrooms (although wouln't advise one in the bathroom)

PIR's are susceptible to flies/spiders so make sure you seal round the cable entry into the PIR
 
true words, but omits one fact.

where do spiders build cobwebs?

whare do you put a pir?

answer to both, in a corner.

you should also only have one pir / detector / cct not multiplessince you wont know which one went off.

years ago you could get latching detectors, but these are not very common now.
 
The best general purpose PIR is the Pyronix Colt. Fix it to the ceiling in the corner with the bracket supplied and you'll never have a spider problem. Even if you leave a big cable entry hole there is still a built in insect guard.
They also do a dual tec version for the garage. I've fitted thousands and I think I've changed two.
 
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Cheers chaps.

Flat roofs areas over windows make it difficult to make entry holes and hide cable run so PIRs have to be fitted opposite.

Need PIR in bathroom as it is a single storey building and access would be easy, particularly as the window in it is the sort where the glazed unit comes out from the outside.

Was intending to put PIRs on same zone but in separate rooms.

Have been looking at the Pyronix range, particularly the Magnum MEQ Blue...attracted by its "adjustable detection range" feature (5 - 12m), as that may enable me to get away with putting them opposite windows.
 
Cheers chaps.

Flat roofs areas over windows make it difficult to make entry holes and hide cable run so PIRs have to be fitted opposite.

Need PIR in bathroom as it is a single storey building and access would be easy, particularly as the window in it is the sort where the glazed unit comes out from the outside.

Was intending to put PIRs on same zone but in separate rooms.

Have been looking at the Pyronix range, particularly the Magnum MEQ Blue...attracted by its "adjustable detection range" feature (5 - 12m), as that may enable me to get away with putting them opposite windows.

don`t worry about it looking at the window - never been an issue in over 20years of installing ( dont like the sound of a sensor in the bathroom though) but definatly dont put more than one sensor on each curcuit
 
You say not more than one detector on a circuit.

Do you mean that each PIR or door switch should have its own zone?

I was thinking of having two PIRs on one zone i.e having the PIR detectors for two adjacent rooms on the same cable with them connected in series... would this not be OK as it would save on cable.
 
deffinatly NOT the done thing, you need to have one active sensor per zone for several reasons ( if you want I`ll list em later ) and if you decide to use the more secure EOL ( end of line ) wiring method then it`s near impossible to explain the concept in text.

you could always use a seperate " pair " within the cable to minamise cable runs ie. one curcuit on blue and yellow, one on orange and brown

biggest advantage for yourself would be when connecting, testing to have only one device to worry about at a time and then in the future if it activates on C3 you know which detector it is.
 
deffinatly NOT the done thing, you need to have one active sensor per zone for several reasons ( if you want I`ll list em later ) and if you decide to use the more secure EOL ( end of line ) wiring method then it`s near impossible to explain the concept in text.

you could always use a seperate " pair " within the cable to minamise cable runs ie. one curcuit on blue and yellow, one on orange and brown

biggest advantage for yourself would be when connecting, testing to have only one device to worry about at a time and then in the future if it activates on C3 you know which detector it is.


OH!!!....Is this not correct then - http://www.letsfixit.co.uk/html/burglar_alarms.html#TWO_PIR_CONNECTION - see paragraph about mounting sensors and running cables.
 
OH!!!....Is this not correct then - http://www.letsfixit.co.uk/html/burglar_alarms.html#TWO_PIR_CONNECTION - see paragraph about mounting sensors and running cables.

it`s correct - doesn`t make it right though LOL

You`ll find it a lot easier now and in the future if you keep them seperate


Phew!!!!...just a false alarm then :LOL: I know what you are saying...the more straightforward the installation is now, the easier it is to maintain and diagnose problems later.

The whole project is becoming a bit complicated regarding hardware and layout, because it isn't just a case of a few PIRs only. I would appreciate one of you experts **************
 

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