Leaking Thermostatic Radiator Valve

kirbett · 6 Jan 2008

I have just discovered that one of my thermostatic radiator valves is leaking. It's an ACL Lifestyle valve, and if I remove the head of the valve, I can see that water is seeping up around the pin in the centre of the body. Replacing and closing the head of the valve does not seem to stop the leak.

Is this just a washer that's gone inside the valve body? Or will the whole valve have to be replaced? And is this something that can be done without the system having to be drained?

I suspect I'm going to have to call out the plumber anyway, but, of course, it's Sunday ... is there any easy way of staunching such a leak for a day or so?

Thanks

ChrisR · 6 Jan 2008

Is there a hexagon or similar shape round the offending pin?
If so, try tghtenng it a little.

Ony other way is to isolate and drain the radiator.
CLose the valve the other end.
If your TRV has a "0" = off position, ok, otherwise put something like a 5p coin between the pin and the part which pushes it, and turn the trv head down as far as you can. Then drain the radiator by undoing unions and using a cat litter tray or similar.
Changinf a rv means getting wet, unless you drain or "Bung" the system. Search on "bung"!

kirbett · 6 Jan 2008

Chris, thanks for the reply. There is a hexagon nut around the pin. As you suggested, I've tried tightening the nut, but it doesn't seem to have made much difference.

I could isolate and drain the radiator - I've done that in the past when decorating, and I've got some brass blanks for the purpose, but since the unions are between the radiator and the valves, how would that affect the leak?

NEALDEAN · 6 Jan 2008

IF YOUR GOING TO CHANGE THE VALVE THEN YOU CANT JUST DRAIN THE RADIATOR, THE WHOLE SYSTEM WILL NEED DRAINING TO ALLOW YOU REMOVE THE DEFECTIVE VALVE AND REPLACE IT.

kirbett · 6 Jan 2008

I think I've accepted that the valve will have to be replaced, and, in turn, this means that the system will have to be drained/bunged or whatever. So the only issue I'm trying to address now is how to minimize the leak until I can get a plumber in. It wouldn't be such a problem if it weren't a Sunday, mid-winter, and we hadn't had brand new carpets laid just a few months ago ...

Fyi, the leak is slowish .. takes about 5-10 seconds or so for the water to pile up on top of the valve and start dripping down the side, but I anticipate that this may be enough to overwhelm my defensive measures overnight.

NEALDEAN · 6 Jan 2008

I WOULD TRY ONCE AGAIN TO TIGHTEN THE TINY NUT AROUND THE PIN, IT MAY SEEM TIGHT BUT TRY GIVE IT A NIP IT MAY WORK.
OTHER THAN THAT, DRAIN THE SYSTEM NOW AND HAVE AN EARLY NIGHT WITH THE 15 TOG

NEAL

bengasman · 6 Jan 2008

NEALDEAN said:
IF YOUR GOING TO CHANGE THE VALVE THEN YOU CANT JUST DRAIN THE RADIATOR, THE WHOLE SYSTEM WILL NEED DRAINING TO ALLOW YOU REMOVE THE DEFECTIVE VALVE AND REPLACE IT.

Are you partially sighted? We are not. Turn your caps lock off

NEALDEAN · 6 Jan 2008

thats twice iv been asked not to use capitals ???????

whats the big problem what txt i use ???????????/

maybe you all need to get out a bit more !!!!!

corgiman · 6 Jan 2008

CAPS IS HARD TO READ

so be a lamb and dont do it

unless you dont want anyreplies other than

TURN OFF YOU CAPSLOCK

kirbett · 6 Jan 2008

CAPS is generally perceived to be the Internet equivalent of SHOUTING, and is normally discouraged for that reason - unless you actually mean to shout. In fact, you'll find this mentioned in the forum rules.

That apart, thanks for the advice, folks. I've since turned the heating back on. I wasn't sure whether the leak was going to get better or worse when I did, but it's since slowed down enough for me to anticipate a good night's sleep - provided I keep the heat on. And a new valve it will be tomorrow.

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Leaking Thermostatic Radiator Valve

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