BATHROOM MIRROR WITH LED

albag · 12 Apr 2008

Guys
i have just purchased a Bathroom mirror heated with led's and pir,
do i take a spur off the socket ring or the lighting!!!!!
the instruction don't tell me!!! pls help

cheers al

Cremeegg · 12 Apr 2008

You've been conned - LED lights run virtually cold - they'll never heat up a mirror. Dont worry about the wiring - take the mirror back!

albag · 13 Apr 2008

Cremeegg
just read my post back, i have not explained this very well,
its a mirror with LED's down each side, with an heated pad behind the mirror for de-misting controlled (ON & OFF) with a PIR,

Chri5 · 13 Apr 2008

Did the instructions suggest what the load for the mirror is?

The LED's might be only a few watts, but the heating side could be a lot more and that will dictate the supply requirements.
Is it 230v or a SELV unit?

I would also suggest you look on the Wiki (bathroom zones) since rules regarding power MUST be adheared to.

(If the load is small then a f/s from the lighting circuit will be fine)*

* Lighting circuit tends to be 6a protection so count the current lighting load (add up all the bulb loads) and divide by 230v to confirm max load on circuit

albag · 13 Apr 2008

Chri5
its an selv ip44 rated zone 2&3, instructions are pretty naff, 2.5 watts
220v/50h2

i have a separate lighting circuit from the CU for the 2 bathrooms,
each bathroom as 4 35w LV down lights (proximity sensor switching behind tile) and extractor fan also operated by the sensor pad,
also have one of these mirrors for each bath room, my initial thoughts were to come off this lightening circuit via junction to both mirrors.

seasickstevie · 13 Apr 2008

I put one of these in recently, and took it off the light circ. The load in minimal.

But you should feed it via a pull switch because the heater (if it's like mine) stays on all the time which is a bit wasteful.

Although when your leds are off if there's no led on the pull switch, you can't tell if the heater's on or off.

Could use a pull switch with a neon, but they're 45a and a bit heavy.

I suppose run the heater off the occupancy sensor would do the trick although the mirror pir would only become live as you enter the bathroom, and they sometimes take a while to settle before they'll kick in, and you might have difficulty getting the leds to come on for 20-30 secs.

Still looking for the ideal solution really.

albag · 13 Apr 2008

SNM
my understanding is that the heated mirror pad only comes on when the
LED's are switched on via the PIR, but will call Roper Rhodes customer service on monday to clarify, don't want the mirror heated 24/7 that crackers,
the whole idea behind the purchase was to do away with visible switches hence the PIR on the mirror and sensor pads behind the tiles for the main bathroom lighting and extractor fan, so don't want to be fitting pull cord switches,.
thanks for sharing you personal experience advice, the mirror will def be going back if the heating pad stays on perm,

cheers al

seasickstevie · 13 Apr 2008

albag,
Maybe I'm not correct about heater being permanently on. It was a while ago, but I put a pull switch in because it's fairly important IMO to be able to isolate, which you can't do if depending only on a PIR.

Incidently, what are these tile sensors you've got?

albag · 13 Apr 2008

SNM
someone on here guided me to the site, www.sensor.co.uk,
the guy at this company is very helpful, i purchased 4 controllers units and 5 sensor pads cost me £329, fairly expensive for just 2 bathrooms,
but gives the wife the ability to turn the lights at the door and with an additional sensor pad by the bath she can dim the lights while in the bath if she wants to, just a bit of fun really,

cheers al

Cremeegg · 13 Apr 2008

Albag

Great link - they'll have plenty of orders from me.

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BATHROOM MIRROR WITH LED

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