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It's because the screed will perfectly level the subfloor and create a clean surface to glue to with no contamination and cause little to zero dust and mess.

A proffesional floor installer would moisture check the subfloor and then self levelling screed it, if you choose to grind it, that's your choice.

Depends on the quality of screed, but judging by your photo's, a premium screed like Ardex NA would be fine for your application, provided the floor has been tested for residual moisture. Some screeds may require priming before application.

If you check the specification of your wood flooring you will see that 'quite flat' is'nt flat enough for the specification to glue direct to the subfloor. The Subfloor needs to be properly level (and dry) and clean, a latex screed will give you the level and cleanliness you need to securely...

Ideally you need to moisture test the floor with a protometer or hydrometer. If all dry, screed the floor with a quality self levelling screed like Ardex NA If there is residual moisture in the subfloor you will need to apply a Liquid DPM then moisture tolerant screed before installation.

It’s unusual to have such an issue on a ‘new’ property, I suspect there maybe a joint or height/slope transition in that area and assuming is a cement floor, the easiest way to level would be to apply a self levelling screed and refit the carpet etc. If the fitters had thought there may be an...

I would suspect that there is a dip or levelling off of the floor in that area. The carpet looks to be an all manmade fibre carpet with a sheen to the pile, any deviation in subfloor can result in the light reflecting off the carpet at such an angle as to cause a seemingly slight shading/colour...

You need a DPM in the subfloor to install engineered wood. The underlays with inbuilt foil etc are designed to prevent small amounts of residual humidity, NOT act as a DPM.

If laying laminate, we have over the years tended to use a bit of PVA in the header joints to stop them from pulling open. Not necersarily essential, but does just negate issues in the future if the floor does move.

Sounds like a potential water table issue/damp course issue. There may not be a damp course at all or the original may have been breached by the high water table. A liquid DPM like F-Ball F77 would deal with the issue but would need to be applied to the clean subfloor, the tiles would need...

Have you had a moisture check done on that subfloor? Has a fitter/retailer looked at the floor?

Exactly this ^

Commercial Vinyl should be welded on the seams.

That does look a very distinct line, even for a loop pile carpet that can be tricky to seam cleanly. The image is a bit small and I can't zoom in, personally I'd hope our fitters could achieve a better finish than that, however it can depend on the quality of the carpet and even how stiff the...

Polyfloor's advice is the right way to lay it out, Herringbone is about as difficult design as you can get to lay out properly!

Stairrods UK do premium adhesive Ramp profiles up to 20mm. Alternatively you could look at an Engineered Wood Floor Ramp reducer for a 21mm Engineered wood floor.

The crack maybe a breach of the DPM if there is one, or, residual moisture rising to the weakest spot i.e. the crack/break in the floor surface.

I went to look at a customers Amtico floor a few weeks ago that had a steam mop used on it (customer was'nt aware and had had it a number of years before seeing a demo on a shopping channel) and that was a mess!

So long as the kitchen is put in straight and true, the floor should be able to be prepped around it by a competent floor layer. Just how much prep work will be required will be best looked at by the flooring installer who will be able to better advise. If you think about it, far more floors...

Normal Laminate will be fine, so long as you don't get any leaks/spills etc