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In some sense it's always worth doing a thorough job as possible as fixings and batten don't cost much, but if you are wanting to minimise the work then as said above you'll certainly want noggins in places over 2.4m where the plasterboard ends join. As for everywhere else I look at the...

You don't need to be too precise with the application, basically I would run a bead all around the perimeter, say an inch or so in from the edge and then run some vertical full length lines within that perimeter bead - approx 250 mm apart. Whether it is fresh new plasterboard or old plaster you...

Well for sound reduction the best thing to put between 2 layers of plasterboard is a big fat wedge of air :giggle: as its the "2 leaf" design approach where the trapped air acts as a spring to damp the noise. But we are talking around 100mm minimum air gap and I'm sure you don't want to give up...

I've been involved in design and build of very highly sound insulated recording studios. If you haven't bought the green glue yet then save your money. It's expensive and will only show a noticeable difference when part of a comprehensive fully planned design that involves many other aspects...

I do the double cut like in this video : You have to be handy with the saw but it works well for me - not necessarily dead perfect but I found good enough. I also put the board flat on the floor on top of some old carpet - takes a bit of a knack but I find it traps most of the dreaded dust...

Either above or I would just use the same holesaw to cut a plug out of the spare bit of insulated plasterboard, then just spread some filler round the edge of the plug and push it in to the hole. Wipe off excess, leave to dry for a bit then use filler again to finish off.

I think they mean the gap is to be between the side of the ramp as it runs along the wall (with raised edges or side barriers) and then yeah some kind of bridge at the actual door threshold- otherwise that’s one hell of a bunny hop in a wheel chair

No sign of any DPM and also the other similar ramp at the front also bridges the DPC for several feet and almost totally obscures an air brick, and with no sign of trying to remedy that. BC look to encourage a minimum of 300mm offset from the wall for an adjoining / parallel ramp to avoid DPC...

Assuming you have good access to the nut and the bolt can be kept still then deffo the nut end. Even if you have no option but to turn the bolt end (as the nut end doesn't have much room to turn the spanner) then most bolts have a circular profile under the head to stop you gouging the steelwork...

Thanks guys, I need to get stuck in to this concrete anyway as the plonkers bridged the DPC when they laid the ramp. I'm wondering if I can kill two birds with one stone..... as per the pic the washing machine's new drain position will be just the other side of that door, before the brown vent...

Hi, Want to move washing machine to an external wall, right behind which my 4" sewer runs outside under the path. I normally wouldn't mind hacking out the 6" or so thickness of concrete path but on top of that there has been an additional 8 inches minimum thick concrete disabled access ramp...

That is a chunk of cash, if it were half the price it would prob be a no brainer, but yeah if my next job was £800 worth I’d be stalling …. but now knowing how much easier and neater the tape makes the job it would be even more frustrating to decide to save the cash. If more and more folk use it...

I recently used it for the first time in a vaulted ceiling. Only needed one box and winced at the price..... but felt it was totally worth the much easier job that entailed. Every bit just popped in snugly first time with no buggering around and much less mess. Not sure if a new trick or not but...

Others may elaborate but generally Building Regs come in to it when you change a room to become a “Habitable” room. Even if you don’t intend to use it as such BC take the view that subsequent owners / renters will and therefore regs will apply at the time of doing the work. Planning is only...

Sounds like you are literally doing almost exactly what I have recently done...... but I involved building regs and advised house insurance company I had an additional habitable room. It's worth doing, and will ensure you end up with a great job rather than just a reasonable job..... plus save a...

See how things are and what the plasterer says once you get the paper off. My last place was Victorian and had considerable damp / mould in some areas when I bought it and I feared the worse when I finally got round to stripping it all off..... needn't have worried as the walls / plaster behind...

Decided to re-board the floor in this walk through / hall way which was previously a bedroom - as it was badly laid - I'm laying new laminate flooring through this room in to the room shown beyond. Everything from the arch threshold and beyond is a brand new extension with highly insulated floor...

I used this recently for my first time doing coving -...

If an extension is not being ruled out long term then if it were me I'd do the bare minimum for now to get the washing machine in there, without really seeing how good / bad the leaks are its hard to say but if theres a decent dry area where an extension lead could be run to then maybe consider...

Looks a decent space, but would you want a garage long term? If not then rather than trying to repair it - which might cost in the very low £1,000s - maybe consider going for it and having a proper extension built - either a full room or part workshop / part utility. Ok you are looking at 10s of...