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More than happy doing soldering. Got practice making an 8 x 8 x 8 LED cube. Lol I just wanted a reliable digital led thermometer. They will be used on a fridge bed (for fish) and two lobster holding tanks in a restaurant . The output won't be used at all.

Rather than having chunky terminal blocks I thought if I strip 2 single core cables along the cable I can simply solder the red and black as required, no cuts. The device has no screw connectors.

The version we have is 240v. They will be mounted on a board which is hung. So it can be removed and un plugged. I did think it was odd that they have a red and black, also the instructions said red to live black to neutral, which is so odd. I did forgot if I extend the probe cable, will it...

Hi all. Probably quite a simple question. I have 3 temperature controllers with thermometers. I don't want to use the controllers, just the thermometer). They are all 240v I have mounted them to a board and want to have one 240v cable on a socket to run them in parallel. Question 1: what is...

So both then. I will change the MCB first as that is the more economical and shorter time change. See if that has any impact. Then swap the cable out. Thank you very much

So the wire is the problem? The MCB or both?

I actually think it's the whole wire. The first image is of the trip switch and the second is a length of the wire. All the wires are in trunking, so that temp wont be the actual temp of the wire, more the dissipated heat through the trunking.

Hi all. This flat isnt built very well. I have noticed there is lots of movement in many of the plaster boards around both around the window and some of the walls. I recently had all the windows replaced and now the movement in tge sills is annoying me. See a video here: YT video of play in...

I wanted to double check before changing the MCB. Here is the thermal image of tge shower running 5 mins after someone had been in. Here you see the wire getting warm / hot. Would changing the mcb help? Or do I just change the wire too? The wire is a more expensive job as 10mm is quite expensive.

Thanks for the calcs. With electricity and water I would rather be safe lol. Earlier in the thread someone suggested the switch maybe tripping because it's getting hot. This eas just to prove the case.

Quick update. I haven't swapped the cabling or anything as yet. I did however purchase a Flir Camera for my phone. Here are the results: Picture 1 picture 2picture 3 Picture 1 and 2 are about 4 minutes apart after I had a 5 min shower and ran the shower a bit longer. Picture 3 is the...

So I remembered I bought a battery powered dremel that hadn't made its maiden use. You where right. I cleaned up the contact and its all working again. I also figured out what he may have been trying to do. They broke the pull cord, so decided to take take the heater apart. Loose screws and...

Yes they do. But given my description of their time here , I think they felt too protected by the government to care. I only found all the damage after they moved out and I back in

I tried to test it with a multi meter, do you think the red colouring us burn residue not allowing a clean contact? I'll try this evening

Call me one of "those" landlords if you like. I know that tenant and her bf, and the damage he caused, also the crap he dismantled and left here. Oh yes not to mention the attempted 30+ fraudulent accounts on mine. Nearly forgot the 9 months of arrears when he realised the government wouldn't...

Apparently not that strait forward. I can't seem to find any in the UK, also they seem quite expensive (around £20+). A new fan seems to be between 40 and 60. Should i just swap it out. I hate things ending up in the tip. The switch type seems to be a XK2 4 pin.

Quick update. Let's hope I don't have too many typos like my first post. I took some of the floor boards up and noticed them crumble. Evidently rotten, so I decided to rip them all up exposing the original concrete base. Worked put a quarter of the cost of the ply. I covered it in a single...

Hi all I have an electric fan down heater in the bathroom. Somehow my tenant managed to think he can fix it and screw it up. It looks like one of the contacts has heated and burnt the plastic sleave. You can see the damage on the contact on the pull switch. My question is, anyone has a guess...

Oh I see. 10mm² it is. Oh yes,for me CU to the isolator is the easy bit. I guess injust get concerned when it involves a wet area and electricity

Also would it be safe to just swap the cable for a 16mm² for future proofing when this shower dies to upgrade to a 10.5kw?