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I’d already tried replacing batteries. As boiler wouldn’t fire from manual override button I concluded it was the RX1 receiver.

In the end I just replaced everything with a new Drayton unit from Toolstation...only really cost me abiut £20 more than replacing RX1 alone.

Boiler is showing S.30 which according to manual is “no demand for heat” I’ve just took the RX1 off and put a fuse wire loop between terminals 2 and 3, the boiler fired up immediately when turned back on.

Hi, I’m having intermittent problems with central heating not kicking in when RF thermostat is calling for heat (Danfoss TP7000-rf). The CH1 lights red on the RX1 receiver but I don’t hear a click and the boiler (Vaillant 837 Ecotec) does not fire. If i remove batteries from thermostat and...

No, I know the diaphragm is at the top...pan is only in the way if I want to replace whole valve which I’m hoping isn’t necessary and diaphragm replacement will fix problem.

The link is my video... just want to fix the slow fill issue, I’ll get a diaphragm and give it a go, cheers

Yep, filled fine until recently... looks fiddly but not impossible with pan in place

Hi, My concealed toilet cistern is filling very slowly. I can see water coming from the top of the fill valve (Torbeck Opella I think)...I’m pretty sure this is a bottom entry valve so that is not normal? Is the likely to be a diaphragm replacement or does it just need a new fill valve...

@Madrab To be honest this replacement part was supplied a few years ago, only just got round to changing. We had it in the box in the loft but there were no washers or anything. Manufacturer has basically confirmed that it is the replacement part for my shower and if I cannot for some reason...

This is a new rigid riser rail that was supplied, by the manufacturer, for my shower. The original riser didn't have this inner plastic pipe and used a fibre washer in the joint to the valve. I tried to use a rubber shower hose washer and although this sealed the inner pipe it was quite thick...

Thanks @ban-all-sheds, interesting comment about the terminal connector....the wiring to this light was made by an electrician in 2009 as part of a two storey extension.

Hi, Need to replace light in kitchen, picture of wiring from old light below. Old light had an earth wire rather than the fixed metal prong on new light. Wiring from old light was connected to terminal strip which was then pushed up into hole in ceiling. To save trying to cram all wires into...

That is great, thanks Stem....I really thought I'd be on a loser with this one being the furniture came from a shed. I found an eBay item (with dimensions) for what looks to be the newer version but the screw etc...all match up. Cheers (y)

It's cable operated to a concealed cistern. I think the chances of finding one are pretty much zero as it came complete with the bathroom furniture which was purchased from Focus DIY years ago.....tried ebay, amazon plus google searches but nothing so this is a last ditched attempt.

Especially loud on a light load, sounds like the drum or something is hitting the casing....usually refuses to spin on light load. Could this be the shock absorbers? I tried to remove what looked to be the worst of the two as moving the drum showed a lot of up and down movement on it....I...

Just found a video online for a different oven but looks like these elements go in from the back.

Hi, I have the above oven which isn't heating up as it should....I can see the top element glowing but don't know where the bottom element is. The manual talks about a top, grill and bottom element, anyone know where the bottom element is located and how to remove? Cheers George

Here is the top and bottom of the tap....would I be right in thinking I need some sort of Allen key to fit in the bottom of the tap to remove the divertor?