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Just had another more careful look at the junction box and there is another wire connecting the Switched Live to the orange wires on the valves! It's tucked away behind all the other wires and I missed it last night! You can just see it going to the terminal with the green arrow. The brown wire...

OK chaps, looks like I have been chasing a red herring! No that I have the UFH and HW completely off, I found that the microswitch in the CH valve was not making contact. Last night I had I was sure that the moment the boiler burner turned off, the pump also stopped. The rads weren't getting...

The pump IS cycling with the boiler. As soon as the boiler stat fires up the burner, the pump starts. When the burner cycles off, the pump stops. I will double, double check this today, with the UFH and the HW turned off and just the CH programmed to be on. I have never changed the switch for...

Hi Madrab, thanks for the detailed reply! Yes, there is a bypass. There is a pump over run stat in the boiler but for some reason the feed to it (Switched Live) isn't live. I traced the wiring from the boiler back up to the main heating terminal box and it comes in on terminal 1, then that...

If the boiler has just turned off, the pump stops and the hot water that is in the boiler piping just sits there, cooling down instead of going out to the rads. At the moment all that happens is the pipes near the boiler get hot and none of the rads do. They just get tepid. The rads do warm...

We have an old Potterton Profile 80e. Now that the cold nights have started, I've just set the programmer to run the CH. I've just noticed that the CH pump stops when the boiler cycles to off. Rads take forever to warm up! The selector switch in the boiler is set to Fully Pumped, so the pump...

Good! That's what I've done!

In my case this is a gable above a dormer. So wood fillet on rafter, sit small length of board on that? (middle option)

Putting new undercloaking back after replacing sofits. The undercloak boards are butted and not overlapped right? The top of the fascia board is about 30mm above the top of the rafter, so the last bit of undercloak needs to kick up and rest on top of the fascia, right? Do I just fill the gap...

Well it does move, so you can get slightly less hot, it's just very hard. It moves in tiny increments. The valve is free to move. I think its the thermostatic cartrige thats not moving easily.

I've serviced the o-rings on the main cartridge to stop a dripping shower head but the temp control tap is still almost impossible to set to max cold. The end stop is set correctly, the tap is just really hard to move. It moves in very slight increments. The machanical tap moves fine. Is this...

Seems to be three types of tape, PVC foam, EPDM and Butyl. Is there a prefered type for securing doudle glazed units into Accoya wood frames? (Accoya can have nasty effects on things due to the acid in it)

It's just spinning, no sign of anythnig unscrewing...

I took off the black top part (the cover for the flow indicator), then undid the lower plastic hex nut, but the valve won't come out. It's lose, moves up and down about 6mm but won't come out, even levering it up... I can't see anything holding it in. Maybe it's just gunk???

We had a small weep on the flow meter side of an Uponor underfloor heating manifold. When I tried adjusting the flow, the weep turned into a flood! I shut down the pump and isolated the CH from the UFH and tried to remove the flow meter. It is the older black plastic meter with the yellow...

Seems to be working ok. 17 x 5w led GU10's on one gang and 24 x 4.5w led 'filament' bulbs on the other gang. It does buzz a bit, but then it's not a trailing edge dimmer. The gang with the 24 led bulbs on buzzes a lot less than the gang with the 17 gu10's.

Yep, it's a good example of making something awkward and confusing to use and then adding some [email protected] instructions into the mix for good measure...:confused:

Good to know it wasn't just me being dim! :LOL:

It's a dual gang, so in total there is one L and TWO pairs of wavy line terminals, 5 in total. It's to do with using the dimmer with a second on/off switch mounted elsewhere, as the wiring diagram shows, just a bit odd that it doesn't show wiring without the second switch. With the second...

Nope, defo one L and two wavey lines with arrows through. I'll put a pic on at some point... Wired it in and it's working fine. A little buzzy if you are stood right next to the switch at half power.