Search results

Hi all, I find myself needing to buy some new (UPVC) windows for the first time ever. House is a plain 1960s detached, and has 1980s double-glazed aluminium windows, with a hardwood frame and internal trim. Although they don't look trendy, they are in good condition for their age...

I had no felt in my last house (also 1930s). I cleaned it all up, and within a few months, it was filthy again. So a total waste of time!

£400?! You could probably get a fixed-price repair from Biasi for less than that!

Looks exactly like a cheap Triton bar mixer I installed in my own bathroom a long time ago! If I were you, I would measure the pipe centres and buy another cheap one. Any brand. Should be a simple swap.

I bought several from 247blinds, made to your measurements. Very happy with them.

If you are selling, don't waste your money. You will not fit what other people like! Make a bath panel. Some tongue and groove board will paint up nicely. Paint the radiator. Get a door threshold. Job done, less than £100.

Err... I don't see why not. But if there is a liner, why not just stuff some insulation up there?

You can buy a chimney balloon, which you inflate to fit.

No idea, to be honest. Surely it is the same stuff? I have done it the other way and used some of a five litre PVA container for kids' crafts!

I have had worse in the past! You want some expanding foam, PVA and patching plaster/filler. Look up 'Painting and Decorating' on YouTube. He has done loads of videos on this topic. I think the idea with the PVA and foam is to provide some adhesion to the brick underneath. It is supposedly...

'Painting and decorating' on YouTube would say: rake out, apply PVA inside, fill with expanding foam, cut/sand back foam to a few mm below finish level, then finish with Polyfilla. I have tried it in a few big cracks, and it works well. I think the idea is that the foam takes up all the gap...

I prefer my modern ones because they have convector fins. This gives much better heat output. I have replaced all but one of my 1970s Stelrads with new Myson Premier HE.

Buy quality. I had some 1970s Stelrad in my house. I bought a modern Stelrad, but wasn't quite happy with it. I got a couple of Quinns: a short one was OK, but the 1.6m long one was very thin steel and wobbles. More recently, I bought a bunch of Myson Premier rads, and this difference is...

I would use ready-mixed repair plaster. It spreads nicely with those Euro filling knives. You only need to go down far enough for the skirting to cover the crime!

Hmm, yes, but I wanted something in between the rafters too. So 100mm there, then either insulated plasterboard or 50mm PIR and regular plasterboard.

Yeah, I can see how stapling some bubble wrap will take a couple of hours, but cutting PIR will be way longer. Let alone the price difference in the material! Thanks for the comments.

Hmm, I didn't think quickly enough on my feet to ask how many layers. I assumed one. Good idea on checking the R value (duh!). That makes it look pretty black and white, doesn't it?! I suppose I was secretly hoping for some magic reason to explain that it is OK really. A bit of a shame...

Hi all, The loft in my 30s semi has a cross-braced chipboard floor. I wanted to take to the next level by insulating the 'ceiling' so I can have clean storage and hobby/office space. I bought some 100mm sheets of PIR which I was going to friction fit between the rafters (which leaves about...

I think the ordering was what he thought was a faff. He did say positive things about the boiler, even describing how they are a different HEX design than most, so I took confidence from that. It is so hard to find people! It took me ages to get someone to paint the outside of the house, and...

Thanks, I will get in touch with the Intergas Shop. The heating guy mentioned a flue duct seal and a door seal/gasket, but he said getting Intergas parts was a faff. He has been very good with his work on my rads, and I am going to get him back for more rad replacements. It has taken me ages...