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Ok, great. One other question; the joists are running perpendicular to the fall of the roof. With the metal roof this is achieved by a change in the height of the joists across the roof. If I want to change to timber I guess I will want more contact with the joists so this might not work? If...

Hi, I have a brick built shed. It is a single brick wall and currently has a metal roof on. It is approx 3.5 x 2.5m. I want to swap the metal roof for a green roof. I will need to add more roof support for this; Can I use wall hangers off the brick walls for this, or am I better off cutting...

I have a bathroom I need to renovate. I had the pipework redone when the ceiling below was down but now I need to address th floor. It is currently very butchered original floorboards, with large holes where they have been removed and cut. I can take out all the bathroom bits (bath, toilet etc)...

I went with a newel post in the end. I couldn't get a curve and slope I was happy with that I would be certain would be strong enough. Really happy with how it turned out, first Bannister I have done so not perfect but looks pretty good and all very secure. Thanks for all the help.

No, I have a downward curved piece that I will then attach to a straight piece using zipbolt connectors. So from bottom newel it will be straight piece, into upward curve into 90 degree curve into straight piece. Or two straight pieces with a newel post in-between if that doesn't work/I screw it...

It's not a sweeping curve, more a right angle curve. Once the bits arrive I will lay them out and see if I think the corner is feasible. Thanks for your help!

Do you think if the spindles were bolted top and bottom it would be enough to resist this movement, or am I better off just putting a newel in? I was hoping to have a nice curved rail, but it's not the end of the world if this is a no go.

That's what I was hoping, given I can secure it to the wall and the newel at the bottom of the top flight. I was just unsure if there were any regulations about gaps between newels etc? I know the spindles can't have a gap >=100mm anywhere. If there are no regulations, I guess it is a case of...

I have the attached area I need to install a handrail. The width is about 80cm and the down part is about the same. What I would like to do is have a curved handrail that connects to the newel post on the stairs and then into the wall, possibly via a half-newel post. There will be metal...

It is a brick in the wall, albeit to the edge of the wall on one side. The wall is a 9inch solid wall. There is currently dot and dab plaster board on it; I guess I would be better off knocking a hole it that so the handrail could connect directly with the wall?

Thanks. So I guess the 6mm bolt end into a suitable Rawl plug in the brick, or should I use some form of resin anchor with it?

I would like to connect the end of my Bannister straight into the wall, rather than using a half-newell post. The wall is brick. Is this ok from a structural point of view and what would be the best fitting for doing this? Or am I better off sticking with a half-newell against the wall using...

All sorted. As you all thought the link had been left in. Thanks for all your help!

Yep it is the installer coming back. I will mention it to him and see what he says.

Ok, sounds like a panel off job then so out of my remit. Will let you know the result once gas man has sorted it. Thanks for the help.

It is only a month or so old, but I'm not living in the property so only used it a couple of times. I have a 10yr guarantee on it, so is it a case of getting the engineer back? I have switched it off for now as I was worried it was costing me money? Also, I meant to say in the original post as...

Hi, I was wondering if anyone could help before I contact my engineer. I have a vaillant ecotec plus. This is connected to a Heatmiser UH8-RF - 8 Zone Wireless Wiring Centre, with 2 underfloor heating zones and one zone for radiators. The problem I have is that the radiator symbol is...

There is probably a fair bit of moisture still leaving the tanking slurry. There will always be moisture in the house and at this time of year always a cold spot it will condense on, unless you can rid of it via ventilation. Heating an area will just make it not that area that condensing...

Are you sure it is not condensation? The wall behind the insulated plasterboard will now be a cold spot and the gap will allow the air to condense on it.

Thanks. I biscuit jointed and bolted the worktops together but otherwise kept that joint dry. I don't really want any physical joint between the upstands and worktop other than a bit of silicone for sealing as I am concerned about the relative movements of the two pieces. This is the first...