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No answers for this one then. The rust can’t be a good sign though. Turns out the cool shower was because the water temperature was turned down to 30 on the remote thermostat, simple really!

Hi I’m having problems with a luke warm thermostatic mixer shower. Here’s what I know- It can be hot for 20 seconds then goes to luke warm and won’t heat again. The taps work fine however take a moment to get hot again after the shower has been used. I have had a pressure valve fitted but not...

Green is the combi boiler, red is a radiator

Hi all I’m fitting a new wireless wall mounted thermostat but reading the advice on where to mount it is just telling me that nowhere available is the right place. It’s a first floor flat with cavity walls and no radiator in the landing. Don’t put it on an outside wall, not near a radiator...

Thank you very much Open Therm and this controller satisfy the load compensation criteria then. Thank you for signposting the video, that’s exactly what I needed. Disappointed I didn’t find/skipped over it in my own Vokera and google rabbit hole.

I think you’re right by saying it’s not a special mode or anything. Why put the asterisk there? I think maybe it’s just a bit more information to clarify how it meets the requirements.

I have seen another flow chart that does seem to suggest only one of the options is needed too, thankfully.

I have a Vokera easi heat 25c boiler it is currently using the built in mechanical clock timer and a wired thermostat on the wall next to it to control it. I am getting the vokera 7 day programmable wireless (Vokera 20059643 RF Thermostat although it has arrived and it’s branded Alpha). And...

Chipping away (with a bit of drilling) has taken some off, enough to make the floor feel good. This has been uncovered by removing the carpet, it’s not been an issue with access, there’s enough gap around it. Should be all good now fingers crossed

Thank you for your ideas. No angle grinder so that’s not an option. I think chipping away at it will be the only way. You can see it’s probably 10mm looking at it this morning, might try laying on top to see how it feels.

You are right it doesn’t need to be smooth, I can put a bit of mortar or plywood on top of needed.

How do I cut the grooves? What does thistle as a verb mean? I can imagine chiselling bit by bit..

How would the bricks react to being hit on the side with a chisel?

Do you know of a way to trim the top instead? The bottom of the bricks are below floor level and not very accessible. I’d have to smash them from the top and it wouldn’t work very well tbh

Hello all, I’m laying a laminate floor and where a brick wall has been opened into a doorway the floor hasn’t been levelled properly. I’ve got floorboards which butt up to the bricks but they are 15-20mm higher. This seems too much for a laminate floor and it will be neater to be able to run...

It all makes sense now

There’s no hand hits head emoji

Not undone the screw, oh right, that was the screw and cap you mentioned.

So the replacement cartridge will have splines? Just make sure the overall length is the same?

So it doesn’t have any splines, just a tiny indentation for the grub screw to hold onto. I don’t know the tap make so will a spline version work, as long as the other dimensions are the same?