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The cheap ebay ones are stolen, fake or both.

You can use an adaptor, 1A is 230W. However UK shaver / toothbrush plugs are not EU plugs even though they have a similar appearance. You need an EU to UK adaptor.

Clip the cables directly on the wall behind the units, chase in the short vertical sections to the sockets. All will end up in the service void behind the new units. Unless they are Ikea units, in which case buy the kitchen from somewhere that actually knows how to make kitchens.

For most end users, none. It's provided like that because that's how it's generated and distributed. Switching to high current single phase supplies would require significant changes to existing infrastructure.

No, that is a constant current 700mA supply. You need a 12V constant voltage supply with a power rating higher than the rating of the strip.

No, they are halogen ceiling burners, probably 50 watts each. Perhaps 35 if you are lucky. Equivalent LEDs are 3 or 4 watts. From the pictures they look like GU10s, which are twist to remove as advised above. Box of 50 here...

If you must chase, then it's done before anything is fixed to the wall. As it's being covered with insulation and plasterboard, chasing is just a waste of time and money.

As it's a whole new kitchen, scrap the lot and start again. Far less bother than attempting to extend 30+ year old wiring.

All air conditioners are heat pumps. They move heat from one place to another. In the case of cooling, it's moving heat from inside to outside. When operated in reverse they move heat from outside to inside to heat the building instead of cooling it. Used in commercial premises everywhere...

https://www.heatgeek.com/

Those devices are ultra basic, and will show totally misleading results for plenty of faults. They are best used as 'working / not working' rather than any kind of indication as to what the problem actually is.

Please confirm exactly what you have and are intending to do. Currently you have gas oven to electric in the title, then mention an existing electric oven, then a cooker, and then a hob - all of which are different things.

Any high quality exterior gloss paint. However the surfaces must be prepared properly first, which means removing old paint and any loose rust, chemically treating the rust that's left, then applying metal primer and undercoat. All of the 'one coat slop over' things which claim to magically...

Almost all of the electricity generated from gas in the UK is via CCGT, which is what you linked to earlier https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Combined_cycle_power_plant where the gas is burned to drive a turbine directly and then the heat from that is used to create steam which drives a steam...

May as well just leave it unlocked. The 'security' offered by such devices is next to useless.

That has happened because the light was designed for 10W halogen lamps. 48x10= 480W, well within the 550VA rating of the transformer. With 20W lamps, it's 960W, well above it's design rating.

1 - yes, its wrong 2 - yes 3 - it may have been, in that configuration it has the full voltage applied between the N and E terminals all the time, which depending on the supply voltage may have caused damage. Uc on that device is 255V N-E, which is very close to the maximum permitted supply...

If they are LED, that is grossly excessive. If they are halogens return them, as you won't be able to buy replacement lamps. They will also waste away most of the electricity as heat.

Yes.

That can happen with any boiler, new or old. Spending £1200 to replace a working boiler because of some fear of it breaking is nonsense. Boilers do not self destruct after 5 years, they can and should last for 15- 20 years provided they are serviced regularly. However there is an entire...