Search results

Moved to flooring forum as per rules (Sorry!)

Woops - posted this on the wrong forum yesterday - berk! Hi We are in a basement flat and have had the dreaded rising and penetrating damp in our bathroom (measures 3.2m by 1.8m, so we had it totally stripped out and had a damp specialist fit Triton membrane (8mm to walls and ceiling, 20mm to...

.

.

OK so further hacking and so on today and it's become a bit clearer and also more confusing, par for the course I guess... There are three distinct areas; there's a 6" high border at the bottom of the walls that is rock solid concrete, as hard as iron, and is showing no sign of deterioration or...

Hey ho - our flat is the basement of an 1860's building and as expected it's plagued with damp :-( We stripped the plasterboarding in the corner of our bedroom today as the wallpaper was lifting and we could tell the plasterboard underneath was pretty manky. Pic shows the wall we've uncovered -...

Looks that way! It's weird that the receiver seems to forget it's been paired with the sender. I've emailed Danfoss but I'd imagine one of the units is faulty; just wondred if anyone else has fitted one and had similar issues. Ah well.

The input for the boiler is just a connecting block; it is intended to have two wires connected to it which go to the switching contacts of a thermostat. Closed = on. That's exactly what comnes out of the receiver of the Danfoss. There's nothing wrong with that; it works. I can duplicate it with...

It's a relay signal, that's all the boiler needs. There's a red light on front of the receiver that shows whether it's being asked for heat by the sender or not; that's the indication that shows that the signal is dropping.

Nah it's compatible, the output from the receiver is just a pair of relay contacts, the boiler just needs a closed/open signal so no problem there.

Hi Does anyone have experience of these? Fitted one a couple of days ago, sender unit is in the hallway about 10 metres from the receiver in the back room; there's not a direct line of sight between them, there's a brick wall and a corner. Anyway, the receiver keeps losing contact with the...

As Mandate said, the motor gets its power through the first microswitch's "Normally Closed" contacts from the CH wire (white in my case). So when CH was activated, the motor got no power so didn't move to the A/B position. Took the switch to pieces, problem was burnt-out contacts, same as you...

Just fixed my mother-in-law's central heating! She had exactly the same prob I had 4 years back - heat not getting to the radiators although boiler, pump, stats etc working fine and no airlocks. Checking the pipes into and out of the three-way valve, it's HOT from the pump, HOT to the Hot...

OK I think I have it! Checking up on the system it checks out to be a Honeywell Sundial Y-plan, and the 3-position zone valve looks like it's not operating properly. When I move the lever to 'manual', the system flows hot but the motor in the valve isn't operating to switch the valve...

Ok - with pump on low flow setting, output pipe is cooler.... Airlock? But vent pipes only flowing water when bled, and rads the same. Sludge?

Pump is on max (3) but I'll need to let the system cool down before setting it to 1 or 2 and doing a temperature check. Cheers!

All water is present and correct

Hi chaps I've a fairly simple but oild system, Grundfos Selectric pump, potterton boiler in a single-floor flat with 6 rads - single flow pipe from pump feeds to 1 rad then splits two ways to feed 2 and 3 in the rest of the flat. The boiler comes on ok and the pump seems to be running (light...