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I found some cracks in our bathroom tile grout behind the bath tap & there's mould behind the few tiles I've removed already. I've never done any tiling before so am a total novice at this and would value comments/corrections. My plan so far is to keep removing tiles until there's no more...

OK it's holding so far. Thank you for your help

Understood. Just got back with the new one so will try now

Would prefer to take it out but how would I desolder to remove it?

OK it's out. Can I simply replace the bit I've removed as not confident it will fully tighten now it's rounded. Perhaps with this? https://www.toolstation.com/made4trade-mt-cock-type-b/p44048

OK will try

In trying to tighten it to stop the leak from the spout I've rounded off the plug and it leaks a little from there now as well as the spout, so would you agree removal and capping seems the most viable answer?

I can't find anywhere to screw off, so would like to just remove it and plug the 15mm pipe it connects to. Any desoldering tips in a tight space? I have a fairly cheap soldering iron and heat gun in the garage

OK system is now drained so will give a go thank you

Good point, unfortunately it is soldered on so don't have access to renew

Opened our CH drain to drain the system and now it won't fully close. I've fitted a new drain elsewhere on system so happy to bung this old one up, any tips? Photo from before I opened it.

Thanks for the reply. There isn't a drain going outside for this. Only one is the boiler's PRV drain.

Under ground floor (am working in the cavity at the moment and spotted it) Boiler is on ground floor. No drain cock.

I've found a small leak on an isolator for our CH system (sealed system, no drain valve), so need to drain it ideally (I'll replace the fitting with a new compression isolator). Any tips on how to do this with the least mess? Needed to get to this job at some point so now is as good a time as...

Replacing 18mm plywood sub-floor in kitchen due to a leak (was a slow one so went mouldy before it was noticeable). Whilst it is up, are there any worthwhile upgrades I can make to the existing sub-floor (without pulling up the T&G layer on top of the joists)? Current structure is as follows...

Just the area where the washing machine is for now. Had a leak so some of the tiles and plywood sheets are already up

Sadly no trapdoor

Our 1970s kitchen has a suspended floor, gets cold in winter and supports a washing machine and tumble dryer that I want to use at night on our cheap rate. It has a very deep cavity with a lot of builder's rubble at the bottom, so access from underneath is a last resort. Floor make-up is as...

I have come across some random plasterboard in-between a few of our loft rafters. The previous owners had a two-storey extension built 10 years ago with some new roofing that joined onto the existing roof. There is some overlap between new roof felt (beathable) and the old existing felt (the...

I want to secure some brackets to an internal wall hold some heavy things. I'm looking to get some strong fixings for this (I know which ones I want to get How do you work out whether it is dot & dab or studwork (with cavities) behind plasterboard on the internal side of an external wall?