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Are you sure your parents have a combi and not a conventional/heat only or system boiler combined with a cylinder? I vaguely remember one combi model many years ago that had the ability to share the heat output simultaneously between heating and hot water depending on hot water load...but I may...

It's a combi boiler and that's how they all work. If your home is loosing so much heat in the time it takes for a shower you've got some serious heat loss issues.

It should normally be left in the auto position..manual is only used for draining & refilling the system. Sounds like you still have a problem...so call them back.

The room stat just tells the motorised valve to open on a heat demand. Once the valve opens it operates a switch inside to command the boiler to fire up. A valve stuck open will keep the boiler on regardless of the thermostat setting.

More likely a motorised valve sticking on...

Have a look in the F&E cistern...I guarantee most have a molehill of sludge from poor installations.

They're both poor and out of date layouts. With modern boilers and the minute waterways why would you not have a sealed system?

Just remember there is no such thing as a refurbished pump..just used and secondhand and a lottery.

The valves often seize...they should be excercised every 6 months say. See if they'll shift with pump pliers but if the expansion vessel hasn't been checked for a year I'd be checking that first for air pressure.

Have an electric shower on standby. When your combi packs in at Christmas and you have no hot water or heating you'll appreciate it. Personally I think your priorities are wrong and a combi is a really bad idea for such a large house. Installers will shove in whatever suits them and of course...

Probably trapped air in a redundant hot feed pipe or elsewhere in the domestic pipework. These should be cut out for compliance.

Nothing is standard with hob sizes..all down to luck.

That's the rating at high temperatures but you design accordingly. Electrolytics can last a 100,000 hours and more.

That component is a 1mH choke....I suggest you chuck the lot in the bin. Most of that board operates at lethal voltage and given the comments so far, any attempt at repair would be ill advised.

Google Anderson Powerpole

Wind the PTFE tape to form a taper on the tap thread and wrap the thread with sufficient turns to tighten the tap such that you end up winding in most of the thread but can set the tap vertical without running out of threads or it being too loose.

E5's a well known fault code...very often caused by the old rope burner seal (it was replaced for a graphite material) and/or failing ignition module so call the gas eng. back.

Just buy an industry standard workbench (mine are 935mm high) and a draughtsman swivel chair.

I assume the room thermostat wireless receiver is very close to the boiler and it's wiring is surface mounted and probably fine. That only leaves the diverter actuator in the boiler...a leak on the valve spindle could find it's way into the actuator (that operates at 240v).

More likely your system just needs balancing..if you've got 10 to 20 degrees between the flow and return and the lower area is cold then that's probably sludge but it's a very rare occurrence.