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Where I used to work we used the Pace MBTs,,, really good piece of kit for proffessional use; they are expensive, but IMHO you do get what you pay for and the parts will be available forever. It's no good buying something thats cheap with restricted or non existant availability of parts

I've had this happen twice on me a few years ago,, different dishwashers BTW Cables at the bottom of the door were either fractured due to their constant bending (opening & closing door) or were rubbing on the framework!!

This is a quote from the approved document P 2006 edition which I think could be helpful Page 9 k. The installation of prefabricated, “modular” systems (for example kitchen lighting systems and armoured garden cabling) linked by plug and socket connectors is not notifiable, provided that...

IMHO I don't think you'll get anywhere with this the work was carried out 4-5 years ago, in that time anyone could have tampered with it (that'll be his defence) and whilst he has issued a certificate for his work only a few weeks ago, it could be a copy of the original (which the previous...

Permanent Live & Neutral to L & N then remove link in boiler and connect terminals to COM & NO

What I tend to do is offer the client options and then do what they are paying me to do. I never blindly rewire a property like for like, more often than not they want extra sockets or want light switches moved or extra lights etc..

I doubt it... have you disconnected the wires from the old switch yet? I hope not. You need to mark each wire and note which terminal its connected to before you disconnect them, then move the wiring across to the corresponding terminals on the new switch. Don't forget, if your new...

I'd have to say yes as that's what the website says

How about one of these? They also do hidden switches :wink: probably a :shock: price though.

IIRC i think you can get both dusk/dawn and dusk + x Hrs photocells... however if you want the light to come on at dusk and off at say midnight then connect the photocell supply and timeclock supply terminals to permanent live & neutral then the output through the timeclock terminals... set...

If you're doing lighting via plug/socket on a lighting circuit then I'd have thought that best practice would dictate round pin plugs & sockets?

You should really replace the busbar as it's more than likely over heated

Mine in bold Have a look at the ESC guidance, loads of good info in it!

I had some crimps that felt loose a year or so ago.. I found that it was the crimps (Pik a pak - or something like that) SWA crimps seem to hold solidly. I have a SWA crimper BTW

I did the 2391 in 4 1/2 days. Written exam on afternoon of 4th day and practical on following morning.. then 3 months wait for the results/certificate

If you get the Click Mode switches you can alter them around to suit. get a 3 gang light switch and 3 x intermediate switches, remove the switch modules and put the intermediates in the 3 gang plate. You'll probably need at least 35mm backboxes though (maybe even deeper?)

I was at someones hose the other day and saw a dodgy extension lead... they'd use "table lamp" cable to make it, yes you guessed it.. 2 core 0.75mm, If I had to guess I bet it would have a 13A fuse in the plug, but I didn't look, just told them how dangerous it was and unplugged it! If people...

Yep... I probably would seem to work, but the red is the permanent live and the black is a switched live for the other room.. was it "switch off" mirror and light both on but 1/2 brightness and "switch on" mirror off and other light on full brightness??

I doubt that you actually have a neutral at the switch.. my guess would be that they are all either permanent or switched lives (possibly inc strappers) Your best place for a permanent live and neutral would be a light fitting

It's more than likely to be the immersion element at fault and not the "Horstmann" timer.... don't buy one until you know for certain that this is the case!