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Ha! Exactly. Not yet, I need to consult one for the ridge beam which is a condition of the building regs plans approval. The Architect had suggested steels/calcs would needed if the wall was opened up fully (4m) but using the existing opening would be ok

I’ve got a 2.4m wide window that will eventually be the opening into a new extension, but am not sure what is required in the way of lintels. Currently there is an original timber internal lintel and no external lintel at all. Would fitting a L shaped lintel or an off the shelf catnic box...

Yeah, roughly 1.5m Blue are the new chambers, the red is the redundant one.

Hey guys, I'm at the start of an extension project and am wondering if anyone has had a similar problem and how they solved it. I've rerouted the public sewer at the rear of my property away from the proposed extension, all signed off by Northumbrian water etc. but am now left with the 1.5m...

Just wondering what is acceptable for securing the bracing in a truss roof. The diagram provided states 3.35x65 round wire nails, this is the first one I have constructed but I've seen others secured with screws in the past. Just wondering if both are acceptable or if nails need to be used?

Basically my plasterer, or more accurately his apprentice is a moron and has managed to get pva splashes and runs all over my newly plastered walls. I've painted one room and even after sanding the pva marks are still slightly visible, I can live with this as the furniture covers 95% of it...

I like how the roof had been ripped off but there is a brand new radiator just sat there waiting to be fitted. Mission creep is a nightmare on these projects, I've just completed my second whole house renovation, I think about a year of extra work was created by my other half saying "I've had...

Assuming you don't have any proper tools, like a multitool or recip saw, then just use a Hacksaw blade.

I used a blowtorch recently to remove the oil staining from my block pavers. Keep the flame moving, don't concentrate it in one area too long. Very effective, but stinks.

My landing was similar, quite a big junction for pipework and the boards/joists has multiple cuts and notches. I replaced it all with plywood in the same thickness as it was easier to bridge the pipework and get better fixings.

Tried another new washer and still the same. Pulled the pan and discovered a very small manufacturing defect that had been previously superglued at the back which was leaking Used some epoxy to fix/bodge it, seems watertight now when flushed now.

I've a Duravit toilet that leaks very slightly when flushed, only seems to happen on a full flush. It's always done this since I bought the house and I've lived with the drops of water on the floor, however, I replaced the flush this weekend as it stopped working (annoying 2.5" Gerberit thing...

I mean't breathable membrane, I've a huge roll of Tyvek that wasn't used on a roofing job I assume would be ok to use? What about the insulation board, should it be fully filled back to the internal blockwork or should I maintain the 50mm cavity?

The rest of the house has a 50mm cavity, which is why I'm unsure on full filling the void or maintaining this cavity.

At the front of my 1970's house I have a UPVC clad section of wall I would like to insulate. Currently it's just a 2x4 frame with no insulation on the external leaf and a blockwork internal leaf. I'm replacing the windows in the cladded section so figure I may as well add some insulation as...

I boarded my shed floor with it (because it was cheap) it's got a fair bit of spring in it though. Nowhere near good enough for a proper floor.

I used to hate it, recently bought a decent kit (Fugi) and have achieved some kind of silicone god level ability. It's 100% the tilers job though, if you are in that trade you would think he would make the effort over the years to learn/progress.

I would use some quadrant, cut to fit the profile of the upper architrave

Just wondering what is the done thing in this situation. All the bathroom walls will be tiled but I will be using a vinyl floor covering. Do I just tile all the way down to the floor or would a small plain skirting generally be used?

Does it have a lint filter? I'm guessing probably not with it being combined. My LG one started doing this and it turned out to be a huge blockage of lint in the ducting that was stopping the moisture being removed. Would imagine this is fairly commonplace across most of them.