Search results

Hmm you'd have thought they sit inside the nicely rounded and smoothed bit of the cage. There is no problem putting it all back together. It just leaks a lot. I have tried two brands of seal.

The flush valve doesn't seem to be sealing on the flush valve in the pictures. There's no writing on it other than 'fastpart'. I think/thought it was EV98167 which I gather would mean SV01967 seals but they seem to be too big, even the original smaller one barely fits into the recess in the...

Ok...I got fed up with the door being off the shower. Sprayed with halfords chrome enamel. The colour match is perfect. Not sure if it needs to be lacquered. Hope not as I haven't got any and it's going back together tomorrow

My shower door is a right state. It's made from some some nasty alloy that corrodes. I want to try to get a few more years out of it though. Can anyone recommend a suitable silver paint that would keep further corrosion at bay and how best to prep before hand please.

The information I have found online about adjusting the height of my door centre around turning the screws at the top and bottom of the hinge but mine seem to be seated in a recess of the same shape the prevents them turning. Any pointers please

total size is under 2x1m - will cut around the old carpet as a template then following your advice. Thanks

I need to replace the carpet in an under stairs cupboard - first time I've done any carpet laying. Will it be easier if I use the old carpet as a template to cut the new piece to exact size first? If not, then should I cut to replacement about 30cm bigger? more/less? Thanks

Sorry by that I meant leave the fused switch but move it to right. Get rid of unfused one and put the armoured cable into a junction box with plenty of space as it’s very cramped in there currently.

Both switches were always there and they both did the same thing. Turned everything off - lights and sockets. That’s why I was confused. I seldom use that door to leave the garage so the risk of turning off the freezer as well as the lights by pressing the wrong switch is low but if nobody can...

But why the switch though? I understand the fuse but not why there’s a switch too

They are plastic yes. Why do you ask?

Here’s what it currently looks like. Work in progress. The way it was wired when I moved in was the light switch turned off the sockets too. DC92B00F-1CFC-40DE-B045-C73D6A4EB9AF by happyolly posted 13 Apr 2020 at 5:33 PM I’m not too sure of the logic behind the switch on the box with fuse in it...

Hmm 16 Amps is less than 4kw. I really will have to be careful what I have on at any one time if I’ve got a fan heater on in there

Perhaps the fuse was intended for the lights but it wasn’t connected up like that as far as I remember. I can change things around easy enough so that the fuse is just for the lights. I’ve used a junction box to break the wire between two sockets and branch off for the leg of the T.

Nah the fuse is after the input. It then goes to a switch we previously turned off everything. I already rewired the lights in two halves each with two switches. One of those was the original switch. is it bad to do a sort of T Shaped pattern for the socket wiring or should it all be in a row?

My new build garage is supplied from its own 16 amp MCB and protected by a 30ma RCD. After it enters the garage there’s a normal single use fuse. It came with a single double socket in the garage but I’d like 12 more double sockets. Light load. Only 3 or 4 things on at the same time. The...

This pipe screws into the bottom of the cistern. The "gland" is broken and it's been leaking very nicely. Is it called a gland? I need to find a 40mm internal diameter replacement but I'm not sure what I should be asking for. Thanks Gland by happyolly posted 31 Mar 2020 at 11:51 AM

I'm not. I read his comment as him not being sure. I've just bought a loft ladder and some boards and I'm going to sort it tomorrow. Zip it.