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brilliatnt! As always someone else has had the same problems and someone else has made something to get around it! Thanks all M

i hadn't realised you could get these http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ASJ804.html I guess that's what i use thanks M

Hi I'm putting in the first fix wiring for my kitchen, the plan is to have a run of 9 or so downlights going around the worktop areas. I'm planning on using 240V spots and am wondering how best to do the first fix. The wiring is standard with spots will be daisy chained off a...

Hi I'm sourcing the material for my extension and I'm really struggling to decide weather to use Medium density concrete blocks or Aerated Blocks on the inside skin of my cavity wall. The outside skin is brick on the ground floor and medium density with tile hanging on the first floor) I...

sorry to reply to my own thread but i have some more info I've now taken the big water inlet-softner thing out and have given it a good soak hoping that it might have unblocked something - no luck the water seems to go into the bottom of this device through a big orange cake type thing and...

Afternoon My Meile has developed some sort of blockage the result of which is that the hose taking water into the salt reservoir from the big tank in the side (rinse aid ?) pops off when the machine turns on and water fills the base. The draining side of things seems to work fine so i'm...

sounds like a good test, would i be correct to expect no heat at all in the incomming cables to the CU. Will give this a go this evening m

sure, thanks well i guess all i can do is to check the CU connections...... thanks

thanks for the advide will check the connections in the CU to make sure they are all good. What is the "cutout"? M

Hi there I've just fitted my blocked oak worktop and oiled it using Ronseal worktop oil but after 5 days of oil, leave, wipe, oil ...... i find that after putting anything wet on it the wood is discoloured and the grain is raised! Not sure what i could have done wrong i have followed...

consumer unit is circa 1990 and the meter etc has been recently changed. Someone told me that the cooker MCB should be the first breaker on the buzz bar in my setup its the last the order is soket up, sockets down lights up, lights down cooker? but not sure if this is important as the are...

Hi I have moved into a new (Edwardian) house and have noticed that the lights dim when the cooker/appliances come on. the cooker is on its own 40A MCB and the appliaces are on the downstairs sockets ring. The lights are also on a seperate MCB Can it be possible that the supply to my...

will it work? where can i get it from? i have titles on the higher surface with skirtingboard on the vertical surface M

does anyone know where in the UK i can get something like this? http://www.tools4flooring.com/dural-durastep-provence-wood-stair-nosing-8-ft-length.html Any help would be much appreciated M

I have purchased an Edwardian (circa 1910) end of terrace houseand am carrying out a complete renovation. I've just started the living room and have removed the boxing from around the fireplace that must have been there for about 50 years. the origional cast iron fire surround is in place...

Hi i'm fitting a stair/hall runner up the stairs and onto the landing. where this runner meets other carpets ie at the bedroom door ways what do i use to join them. do i have to use a double sided door bar and cut out the unused gripper bits? any advice? thanks Matt

the gap is really between the edge of the architraiv and the wall since the door frame doesn't meet the perpendicular wall

but this an old house and i don't want to have to take the archatraves off to plaster underneat. What's more the plaster isn't coming back so this isn't really an option

hi i've just had my bedroom skimmed but the plasterer has not filled the gap between the outside edge of door frame and the exterior wall. This gap is between 10mm at the top and 3mm at the bottom. the origional plaster in this gap is really cracked and i have removed the majority of the...

thanks M