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I have a new shower screen ... so I'm not even contemplating cutting a hole in it !!! Maybe lose the flexi - agreed Elec cables all OK - checked by a sparky.

There will be a fixed shower screen at the side of the bath, so going over it is the only option ... the previous owner cut a hole in the shower screen and had the pipe going into the bottom of the shower. If I ran a pipe into the bottom it would look worse IMHO (as it would go round the...

Cheers ... it will look better when the shower screen is up and painted etc ... hmmm I didn't think the pipework looked that bad .... how could it look better ???

Hi , See attached photo for the plumbing route of the cold water inlet feed. The electric cable also passes in at the top of the shower, which means it is going to be tricky to cover it with a conduit. I could chase in the cable possibly? I could cover with a conduit as much as possible? I...

I'm plumbing in this shower and I am having the cold water feed entering from the top. The electric cable also enters from the top. This means they will have to be very close i.e. touching ... I feel a little uneasy about this but probably shouldn't worry...I just want someone more...

It's chrome pipe and is all going to be exposed anyway. No problem I'm going to just suck it up and use a small connecting length of pipe to an elbow (left turn !) ... might actually make it easier in future to change stuff anyway.

Not really - but thanks ... I am using compression fit ...

I'm planning my plumbing for fitting a shower ... and I am using a flexible tap connector to go inside the shower unit to attach to the inlet ... and then when it comes out the top of the shower unit I want the pipe to turn left. I could add a small section of pipe (to join the tap connector to...

In my kitchen pack from Homebase I got this (see photo) - like strips of blu-tac type stuff. No instructions ... not 100% sure what to do with it ? Clues please? Thanks

I can fit the rest of the tap - but not sure on the real purpose of the white part ... it fits snugly around the nut ??? But do I need it ?? (See photo) I have the feeling this is a stupid question !!!

Ah - now that would make sense - especially when I am going to use 10mm wall plugs !

I'm fitting a Hygena (Homebase) kitchen cabinet. The wall brackets they hang on to (which I assume are quite standard) are quite wide and at first glance look like they give you a lot of tolerance (horizontally) - however they have to be lined up just inside the recess at back of cabinet so in...

Update from Original Poster : OK - Job done I fixed the mounting bracket then using some twine I hung the light fitting from this, connected the wires screwed light fitting to the mounting plate, and cut off the twine - this worked fine. So fine in fact that when I did the second one it was...

I think I'll try to hang the weight of the light fitting using wire on the mounting bracket while I wire it up... sounds good to me ... thanks

OKAY... this is more a logistics issue than an electrical issue. I know how to connect the light fitting, but how can I hold it in one hand (taking the weight of the light fitting) while connecting the terminals (requiring 2 hands) at the same time ? Any tips?

I used an angle grinder - carefully - and got through it. Thanks all.

Yeah def iron ... not chrome or copper ... I'll get some new blades and Man-UP !

It's up against the ceiling so it's blooming awkward - by "special" blade I wondered if there might be a tougher blade material. Hmmmm angle grinder maybe .. if all else fails ... don't own one yet ...

It's in the kitchen so the rest of the pipe (and it feels like it's quite long) is under the floorboards. Do I need a special hacksaw blade ?

Hi I have some leftover old pipework sticking through my ceiling - I've tried cutting the end off using a hacksaw (so I can tuck the rest up and patch up the ceiling afterwards) but the hacksaw isn't proving too effective ! It kind of made a slight groove, and I think it would take about 4...