Search results

Those sizes sound reasonable. If cavity wall just stick in a 305 97 UC beam to properly support both skins of the wall. He has shown pad footings which need to be factored in too. Splicing will add cost - maybe £100-£150 per splice so I'd try get it in one. That window right next to bi-folds...

Ok. There could be contamination relating with past industrial use but is very low risk. There is a company called Solmek up your way who can do soil testing. If you want to pursue it then I'd suggest digging a number of holes and sampling the soil for typical contaminants (metals, hydrocarbons...

You can just fix it to the foundation as the loads a quite low in this instance. However, Usually the engineer would detail some tolerance into the design to be taken up with shims & grout. This also helps get uniform load spread from baseplate into the foundation concrete.

Clays are decent. I have worked with them on two houses now. Hope it all goes smoothly.

There will be minimal load on the bolts. The baseplate should be grouted once lined and levelled. Usually shimmed to suit then a neat cement slurry is poured to solidly fill the void between baseplate and foundation.

Is he an RICS surveyor? If he is tell him you are considering reporting him for unprofessional advice. He may start becoming more helpful then

I doubt there is a new cavity tray for a conservatory.

Where are you based in the U.K.?

I'd put 75mm between and 50mm under joists. Not quite enough to meet current building regs though. Re the vents an over fascia vent would have been good. Do you have a soffit on the gutter edge? At the other end venting into roofspace may be your only option. I'm guessing the roof may have been...

The ring beam may work in timber but would be quite chunky to span 4m whilst minimising deflection. What size is proposed. Hopefully not 50x100...

I had a similar problem - paint which I couldn't get off. Tried scoring, steaming etc.. but found the Only way to remove was slowly chip away at the edges. In the end I just pva'd it and got it skimmed. Still up 6 months later and looking good with no issues.

If you are doing hip to gable plus big dormer you may well be over your PD limit! Best check it out as full planning may be required

Both are 'correct' solutions but imo if a digger can access just dig the strip footing. The volume of concrete would likely be similar between the two options as the pads would likely be wider than the strip to get the area of load spread required

Make an offer on the lsd and agree a price for land subject to planning. If you dont get it then you can withdraw from the deal and nothing lost

Where are you based in the uk?

If the 16k includes the reinforced ground beams and pile caps it isn't too bad. Have you consider a pad and beam solution?

If the first floor comes out 3.8m it needs full planning.

A 2 storey can only come out 3m from the existing house. If the ground floor already built projects further than 3m then adding a 3m 1st floor extension would not fall under permitted development and require planning permission

I've just used floplast on my house. Seems good and easy to fit. All parts fit well too.

I would tell your neighbours to get some downpipes fitted as they causing you problems