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Emulsion is fine on polymer coving and doesn't need any special sealants prior to painting. I would suggest its worth painting as it will hide any joints better and blend into the ceiling better. Personally I run a line of decorators Caulk along the wall/cove ceiling/cove joins. Bear in...

Emulsion is fine. Personally I run a line of decorators Caulk along the wall/cove ceiling/cove joins. Dilute your first coat by about 10% so it soaks well into the paper covering, then whatever you want to finish off with. I don't want to get too involved with the "Kitchen & Bathroom"...

You could you remove the glass from the offending panel and replace with Spaboard/Aquapanel.

Hi Disposable and welcome! Yes, it is a No! I think you've answered your own question, "some bits are peeling", it will look awful on completion, so its back to stripping if you want a decent job. Use hot water and give the lining paper a good soaking, you could try a spot of fabric...

Hi Marie and welcome! mOt is correct, but you mentioned flaking in four specific places which suggests it may be more than just a lack of mist-coat. Where exactly in the room are you having problems? Do you have a damp course and how are the windows seated on the wall? Are the flaky...

I've used the syringes of stain in the past, works remarkably well for just tweaking a couple of shades. Wouldn't use it normally (about £5 a go) but does have its uses.

Aye, 'dwangs' are great - the only problem is if you have to remove them!

Nae probs!

Just a couple of things: You say you got 90% of the varnish off, so theres still a bit floating about and probably quite a bit more soaked into the grain - could the cracking be "mud-caking" where the paint dries out more slowly on the non-absorbent areas. You don't mention a primer which...

Plan B is your best option, Mist with Gliddens contract - its a non-vinyl and you get better absorbtion and adhesion of subsequent coat, also its a lot cheaper - no point using the expensive stuff as a mist. Give the first coat at about 40-50%, Gliddens contract is very thick and then...

Is it a very old property? Six layers of paper it sounds like it may be, in which case you could be looking at distemper which all needs to be removed or nothings going to stick! Sorry to sound doom & gloom, but worth checking.

Nice one JohnD, that'll come in handy. My only reservation is if there is a risk of fire it'll zip right through the house so worth double checking.

Shame you gave them the deposit, I'm sure that a "cooling-off" period is mandatory now. Trading Standards is a very useful threat in theses circumstances.

Fill & sand all the chipped areas. but you still may not get a completely smooth ceiling straight away and may need to repeat a few times. Try getting some light shining at an angle on the ceiling, this willl give you a better indication of how well you are doing. Avoid any emulsion with a...

Quite a common problem - done it myself a few times! You really want to get the wall a smooth as possible, even with a heavily embossed paper you can still see big irregularities. Certainly re-tape the joints and run a skim of easifil over them. I would also fill and sand any gouges and sand...

Try the tiling section of the forum, theres bound to be someone there who can help.

Good wash down with sugar soap, thorough rinse, light sand for a key then one or two coats of Zinsser BIN. Zinsser BIN is magic stuff and sticks absolutely solid to this type of surface, dries dead quick so you need to work fairly quickly and it can be painted over within the hour. Plenty of...

Paint while the Missus is out, hide the empties and tell her its F&B!

F&B is grossly overpriced for what it is, doesn't cover as well and can be tricky to get a good finish. On the plus side is the "flat" finish (if thats what rocks your boat!) which is fairly academic. As Joe90 says, I would get a colour match at Leyland, you're going to get far better...

You can pick up L shaped timber bead at most hardware stores/B&Q etc.