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If it’s gone off when unset then it’s a tamper problem, could be due to installation again!

This is why I hate wireless alarms, a lazy installation ends up giving a good brand a bad name. All wireless alarms no matter how good will always fail somewhere, 10 years ago there was no choice, all cables were hidden therefore giving the appearance of being wireless and very little went wrong...

The panic button becomes the reset button when it’s in alarm. You have to enable the Panic button on Keypad 4 even if there is no keypad 4 on system.

26 - because the bells will only ring upon a “confirmed alarm”. Meaning bells will only sound after a 2nd defector has tripped. 27 - because you’ll only get internal sounders upon a “confirmed alarm”. Put everything in area A and make sure you give the area a name in “area text” call it...

It’s a 2min job with the engineer code, if your alarm co installed the XP200 then I would get them back in free of charge to program correctly.

I assume the barn expander is area B and AC fail alerts are prog for area A only. If you have engineer access go to area options and enable area B on AC mains fail. This will give you an alert on house keypad. No need to upgrade the PSU.

This is such a common post, connecting a delta bell to a Texecom panel. Why is the delta bell so popular, it’s crap. Surely using a Texecom bell with a Texecom panel is better. An immulinated Odyssey X is 100 times better than the delta bell.

It’s the data (RS485) to the front keypad, this is all pointing to a faulty control panel. Case Tamper would display “Case Tamper 100” Siren Tamper would display “SAB Tamper 100”

I think it may be the onboard keypad which starts at device 00 further keypads are addressed as 01, 02 & so on. A way to prove it is to go into Assign Keypads/readers and give a name to device 0 (onboard keypad) give it a name and if that name pops up along with the usual fault then you can be...

Try powering system down and back up again. No data will be lost.

No carrier would suggest it’s not on your Wi-Fi network. What LEDs are lit on the SmartCom?

What exactly is happening on the keypad display? Run through the setup you’ve done so far for me please.

Leaving for 15mins just reconfigures the mesh network for the Ricochet network, this is just for the detectors.

The link is for adding wireless devices, I assume your issue is with the app connection. If all your wireless devices are clearing in walk test I would leave this and focus on the SmartCom setup. Press and hold Wi-Fi button and pair your phone with the SmartCom again, add your router password...

Are you able to connect via LAN to see if it works that way?

PIRs only light up in walk test mode. (Battery saving feature)

Have you fitted a SmartCom? You’ll need one to use the app. The SmartCom manual gives step by step set up instructions, if connecting via wifi you’ll need to press and hold the wifi button on the SmartCom for a few secs then connect your phone to the SmartCom own wifi. Have you done this so...

It’s likeky they will reuse the cables with other alarm installer. I would meantion this and then if not just chop the cables off too short to be reused. What sensors have you fitted there anyway? And is it alarm activations or tampers?

Flashing the strobe and engineer hold off are for disabling the external siren. To swap a QD for DT you firstly need to put Panel into engineer mode, then swap over the sensor pcb. Can do live but don’t let the positive touch other wires. I usually snip off the bare positive. Rewire like for...

Garage must be a DT