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I went at this afternoon. Pipes fitted but it was very difficult to see when heating the solder ring joints whether the solder had come out due to one end being in the hole in the brick wall, so just had to roughly judge the time and hope. First time applying the water one of the joints leaked...

Thanks. I have already ordered normal skirting, but I think there would be enough space between skirting and wall as the plaster doesn't go all the way down. How do you cut the pipe that far into the wall to allow the angle to added without protruding beyond the plaster? Presume I would need...

Straight coupling? I must be misunderstanding this, a straight coupling would bring the pipes towards the middle of the room, surely it would need to be an angled coupling.

Hi all, As per the pic below, I moved this radiator a few years ago from the position where the pipes come through the wall, to nearer the door, so I could put an old piano here. I just used a couple of 90 deg compression fittings and ran the pipes behind the piano, but I am renovating the room...

I did see that earlier, that's interesting, you mean like one of those electric planers, about £50-60 ish. I've never used one of those. Does it pull the varnish off in strips? I suppose in theory it would likely be less mess than sanding if it did. I agree about the orbital sander, I've used...

Thanks for the replies everyone. To clarify again, I have done this before and I know how to sand a floor. I've done this a number of times and in this specific instance I am looking to completely remove the varnish. I understand that you can key a varnish floor to re-coat. Not sure if this...

So what is it you would suggest then, or what would you do, for a room this size?

Sorry, I should have been clearer about the details. These are solid wood boards which have been varnished. They are not original pine or oak boards, but rather semi modern t&g solid wood which I suspect were fitted around 30 years ago throughout the downstairs of the house. They are dark wood...

Which options?

So, as the title suggests. I am wondering if there is any rule of thumb of sized room before the big drum sanders you can hire become more of a hindrance than a help. When I have used these before, even in bigger rooms you have to start a good bit into the room because the handle and you are...

Yes, I was a bit wary of getting to close and personal with it, even putting aside the fact that you are not supposed to mess around with the power company cable. I mean its a live cable capable of carrying well over 100 amps, there's no coming back from that if it goes wrong! What I did in the...

Thanks. Just checking that I was clear enough that this cable is the incoming cable from the electricity supply network. There is no fuse/circuit breaker prior to this so I am a bit wary of getting too close to it and I am not sure if I am allowed to mess with the cable owned by the network...

Thanks Adam, was doing a bit of a search myself about concrete/cement and cables and found the below basically saying that the energy company will do their nut if you pour concrete around their cables. Allegedly it can corrode them...

While investigating dampness issue I found a hole under the shallow footings (200 year old house). Tried pushing a drain pole down to see if it went all the way into the house and therefore a possible cause of the dampness, and found that it came through in the meter cupboard near the mains...

Might be worthwhile if I offer the point of view of the person who owns the tree, as I have been on the other side of the fence (pardon the pun) where my neighbour demanded that I crown my tree. My feeling was that the tree was mature and a similar height when they bought the property, and I...

I'm fairly happy now that the ventilation is going to be ok with this floor, but before closing I have noticed that there is a lot of dampness around the metal pipe that has been run underground to provide subfloor ventilation. No actual water/drips etc, just very damp clay or possibly damp lime...

Agreed. My main concern is the bottom left corner area in my diagram, that's why I have the sensor there.

I like the analogy, makes sense, just not sure its quite the same thing. The water evaporates into the air because the RH is less than 100%, if it was at 100% the washing would never dry. I think that the reason that wind helps is that it ensures the RH immediately next to the wet washing is...

I'm not sure what damp you are referring to. I've said in my OP that the original joists were resting on the soil, so they would have been sucking moisture directly from the ground. I've rectified that, my question now is as a belt and braces, ensuring that the humidity in the void is under control.

Can you explain that? See my post above, RH will be lower under the floor than outside if the underfloor temp is higher than outside, and higher relative to outside when the under floor temp is lower than outside.