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Thanks Guys. I have also consulted SE. Apparently common methods are: 1. Pack the gap with 100mmx100mm steel plates 2. Use specialist mortar which will not shrink

Is there a maximum gap for dry packing mortar under a padstone? The gap I have at the moment is roughly 55mm and I wanted to double check if there is an alternative solution? Thanks

Thanks @Ivor Windybottom The Wall highlighted on the right is internal and I will plan to move it, so the width will remain as it is ~95cm. Since the width will not change I am planning on keeping the wooden lintel in place. I am not bothered about the height. In summary I will then need 1...

The picture is the proposed plans. Please take a look at the photos on the first post. Opening is covered with block work and the beam is resting on the padstone I will need to support the beam in order to reopen the doorway.

Thanks The opening will remain the same width. Why do I need a needle? Will putting acrow props directly under the beam close to the doorway I will reopen will not be enough?

Thanks @noseall The other side of the beam sits on a external wall.

Hi everyone. Can someone advise me how many acrow props should I use to support this beam? I will be reopening the doorway and will install another beam under it for permanent support. I have 2 acrow props and I wanted to check if they will be enough.

@HERTS P&D Water company engineer fully opened it for me. It is broken but it does not bother me too much, since now I can stop the water from external ( not on my boundary ) stop tap, which works fine. I will tackle it when I will be redoing the driveway. I don't think I will even need it so...

I had a water supply company engineer come in. There was another stop cock outside my boundary the one on my driveway is private one.

I wanted to shut off water supply to my house... due to a minor leak... I think I have used too much elbow grease and stop cock handle broke... Since the stop cock is on my driveway I guess it is my responsibility to change it, which results in me digging out a bigger hole to replace it? Do I...

I am refurbishing one of the bedrooms in my house. I think the room used to be a kitchen ( house is ~90 years old ) hence the mains enter through the ground in this room. I want to turn this room into a bathroom with a shower / pantry. I will pour few cm of self leveling compound to cover the...

Thanks for getting back to me. How can I figure out what kind of lintel do I need? Is there anything of the shelf? I don't think I will be fitting a door as I want to use this opening as a corridor to extension, so as long regular human can go though I should be happy.

I wanted to reopen old doorway which was closed off. I guess It was bricked up after the extension was build which is on the other side of the wall. I have started opening one side since there is already existing door lintel. This is what I found on the other side. Is this load bearing? Could...

I googled around but I cannot find any resource on hot to Do you have any resource or video you can point me to please ?

I did not consider it but I will look into it now. I am planing to cover the surface with acrylic primer. Probably it is also worth to mention that the floor is actually above the ground level.

Hi All I am renovating one of the rooms in 80 years old house. Most of the floors so far were suspended, this room threw bit of a curve ball. It seem like a solid floor. Top layer consists of tiles (2cm thick) under tiles there is some sandy cement pour which comes off with the tiles roughly...

I want to use the space in eaves and create some shelves, cupboards etc Can I adjust the spacing between them and let's say remove every other one to have wider gaps but double up on the ones which will remain? Thanks