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Like muggles said just ptfe the thread.

I install commercial heat-pumps. Downside is the initial outlay cost. As stated do a correct heat loss for the building. I’m assuming you have done that with your proposal for an 11kw? Or call a manufacturer speak to a sales rep get them to size it up. Vaillant daikin nuheat.

Some evaporation occurs definitely some water molecules won’t need as much energy to become superheated.. and because of this the system will be saturated, a mixture of liquid and vapour.. which is latent heat and cannot be measured.

Can’t evaporate if there’s nowhere vapour or liquid can escape from. Nathan

Glad you got it sorted mate.. Nathan

Could be expansion pipe work touching timber

Yeah same concept. However use the palm of your hand not a towel has you are trying to create a seal which a towel won’t do.

Yes but do you still have the hot supply tap?

You’ve got an airlock more than likely. Best way if you still have an hot water washing machine supply valve ( probably not connected ) connect the hot and cold taps together either buy another hose or disconnect from machine. Turn them both on for about ten seconds tops.should be sorted after...

Help! Just had new lawn laid on Saturday. And the window cleaner has just walked all over it.. what can I do? Nathan

Keston is an ideal. They do the 45kw. And they are very reliable. The Atag Q series are another trust worthy boiler. Also can be range rated so if required the demand can be changed. How has your boiler been piped to the system?

The gas main might be iron and corroded and water gets in. If you have ever seen water in the gas main the ugauge goes up and down and if the leak is underneath grass. You’ll see a dead patch of grass. Also the gas is low pressure compared to water main.

If it was only the towel rad pipe work then I would say the problem is the aqua sensor is defective or has some dirt lodged inside. The outer case is part of the combustion case, this will need to be removed so its advised this should be carried out by a RGI. Nathan

The valve will get power to close the heating port on the valve. As stated the switch live comes from the cylinder stat. If you can use a multimeter you need to check the voltage to the cylinder stat. This will indicate if the programmer is sending the voltage for hw on and also hw off...

Is this in a residential or commercial building?

Picture of the pipework looks like solid floor so on drops. It has to be a airlock on the drop. Each to there own but I wouldn't start throwing qoutes about other lads been wrong. When Infact I ain't.

My training?? YouTube yeah mate. Big man behind a keyboard ain't ya firemanT. Prat

Talking about the bypass valve. Have you read what the op wrote. X2 rad are cold? Majority warm at the bottom cold at the top. Previous I said make sure the valves are open. Then vent. Then if the still don't get warm shut the valves that are working fine off. Also the bypass and the tap stat...

And I'm sorry but get this valves are there for a reason. Yes they might leak from a gland break off or they might do the job that they're designed to do. And this saving the op who in my eyes has had a bad experience. Some money that's what this site is about no? Now I'm not trying to play god...

How is it poor? I'm saying you can shut off each radiator one by one with the valve. Then I say vent each radiator?