Search results

Drilling a small hole into a steel beam won't compromise it.

Can you go up and over, putting the pipes under the first floor boards?

Masking tape isn't the way to apply silicone. Remember that silicone is meant to go *in*, not *on*. There should only be the bare minimum on the surfaces either side of the gap

Note the pinned post that says: SHARE YOUR DIY PROJECTS WITH US - >> NO << QUERIES HERE Please !!!!! if you post this in In the Garden, you might get more responses

Note the pinned post that says: SHARE YOUR DIY PROJECTS WITH US - >> NO << QUERIES HERE Please !!!!! if you post this in Building, you might get more responses

Note the pinned post that says: SHARE YOUR DIY PROJECTS WITH US - >> NO << QUERIES HERE Please !!!!! if you post this in Windows and Doors, you might get more responses

It's been like this for years. People seem unable to understand "No queries here please"

Four people who've failed to notice this thread died 8 years ago...

"When I confronted the original plasterer, I gave him several opportunities to get the work sorted, but he just stood there looking shocked saying "What do you want me to do?" When I replied "I'm not a plasterer, what do you think you can you do?", he just repeated over and over "It's within...

That's appalling. I hope you get some redress against them. is there sonewhere you can leave reviews, so that other people don't employ them? Fingerrs crossed that the new plasterer thinks it can be remedied without ripping it all out.

You don't need battens. Cut the insulation sightly undersize. Insert screws horizontally and sit the insulation on them. Squirt expanding foam down all the sides to seal the foam to the joists. That's what I did

Photos would help. Your block paving, or a step, needs to fall away from the garage door. The door needs a weather bar at the bottom to direct rainwater. Does the door frame currently have any kind of threshold at the bottom?

I think Building Regs currently specify 175mm if using board insulation (Celotex, etc). Though presumably you're not aiming to do a Building Regs loft conversion. technically you only need an air gap for older style impervious roofing felt, and it's not essential if it's a modern breathable...

To be clear, it's not your responsibility to contact the manufacturer at this stage. You bought the goods from the installer, and your contract is with him. Legally and practically, he needs to sort it out. Warranties are for further down the line.

That's not so much installed, as rammed in. Caulking the top to the wall, and filling the nail holes, are arguably part of decorating, but those corners are atrocious. The one in the first picture is just smashed together and doesn't even line up

I bought some reconstituted stone window cills, that sat outside for two years before I used them, and went very green. After I'd jet washed them at close quarters, they now look quite old, as the jet wash has knocked the edges off and roughened the surface. So I suggest not doing that :)

That's what I did with mine. Cut all the insulation fractionally under size, rested on screws driven into the joists horizontally, then squirted a bead of expanding foam to fill the gap and hold it together

Further to my previous posts. We've built up first section, 5m x 2m brick wall, brick face with block skin and piers tied in behind (rear of wall can't be seen) We now have a 1.8m high section to build to the right (this is a design afterthought, which is why we haven't left toothing on the...

Yes I know about those things, thanks. To answer my own question, with a 450 pier at each end, entirely at the back of the wall, it looked so substantial that we contented ourselves with one additional pier at the midway point

Further to my question about my 2m high garden wall the other day - a couple more about the size of pillars We have the footings in for a 2m high section of wall, 5m long. At a future date it will be continued in one direction with a connected stone wall It's going to be one brick thick...