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You are right to think its a 3 port valve, the fact its only 3 yrs old don,t matter, check the wiring is in order. Should be a lever on the valve that enables you to open it manually to get hot water if it packs up.

Sounds like problem lies with the salus thermostat, someone nearby is controlling your c/h with their thermostat. Reconfigure the pins in the wall stat to change frequency (go to instructions). If problem persists get your GSI to disconnect the thermostat wiring to the boiler and re connect link...

As said easy to repair and parts widely available, but if you're still wanting a new unit that's cheap and reliable, look at the Ideal Atlantic.

Yep WB plastic components are a joke, with the flow sensor, diverter valve and hydro block all housed in plastic and they all eventually fail with fractures and seal wear. Not to mention nearly all the water carrying connections are push and clip fit, But I,m not complaining repairing them...

Looks like salt glaze.

Or it could be a bath hot outlet is 22mm and a basin 15mm, with the outside mains flow much cooler this time of year and a low kw combi would produce luke warm water from hot outlet.

Slow weak ? more like a strong powerful pump, look towards installation and the condition of your systems carcass and radiators.

Its not a combi , its a system boiler, somewhere around exposed pipe area will be a filler loop to re pressurise system.

In my mothers house I fitted an Ideal c90ff 14 years ago, it needed a hot water switch replacing 2 yrs ago £11 and that,s it.

Ask your installer if they can recommend any other brand.

Hold nut with tap spanner or angle adjustable spanner in space and get an assistant to ease tap anti clockwise.

Worcester bosch have a very good marketing structure and price tag, other than that nothing special at all. Some research on a Intergas boiler might be worthwhile.

Seen this many times with Vaillant ecotec, one of two things usually, a leaking diverter valve (internal seals) Or internal flow or return pipe seals leaking, the connections being push and clip with an O ring seals.

Go to frequently ask questions and look at balancing.

Put a hose on the c/h drain cock (use a jubilee clip to secure hose) open drain cock and back fill system using mains water, 10 seconds should be enough if its a airlock.

At a good guess I would say the problem lies not with the boiler but an iron oxide blockage probably with the flow or return around the cylinder area. Ask your plumber to run a magnet all over the the flow and return pipes in the cylinder cupboard, see if the magnet pulls at a certain point(s).

Try getting the pump removed and confirm the impeller in intact.

Forget the yorkshire fitting and use end feed.

your initial problem was an easy fix, by deflating the EV you have now caused another problem. We cant give advice on here when it involves removing a front panel that is part of a room sealed unit. Get a GS engineer to sort the problem who will no doubt check the whole unit is in proper order.

You must live in Bexley, made me late for the past couple of days. No long time effect and any effects are the responsibility of Thames water.