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Yep, I believe in the US the norm is to bond to the rebar but this pool is typical for the UK at the time which is to say the construction is block without rebar so nothing to bond to anyway. Even the ring beam has no steel reinforcing. I believe the lamp was always 12v no earth and the earth...

Swimming pool renovation has included replacing the deck box that connects to a (new) LED light in the pool. The light is - as before - 12v, fed from a transformer in the plant shed. As you'd expect, the cable from the light to the deck box is two core, ie no earth. Surprisingly (to me) the...

Sorry to revive this thread; changing the batteries seemed like it solved the issue. Today the issue reoccurred (about a week after the new batteries were installed). Just in case those new batteries (which I already had in the house) weren't at their best I've replaced the batteries again...

It's an oil boiler in this case, and a Honeywell DT92 wireless thermostat + relay which actually has never been exactly reliable.

OK so have tested again and so far it's working correctly. Observing the valve, it seems to operate correctly even though the lever isn't fully returning to the "Auto" position like the HW one does. Unfortunately I have zero confidence the problem is fixed for good, because I've done nothing...

Have changed the batteries and testing it again right now. Thanks for your help, btw.

If the programmer is set to heating OFF, the boiler shuts off and the rads cool down. If the programmer is set to heating ON (or is timed to be on), the boiler continues to fire and the rads continue getting hotter, even when the temperature is already higher than what the thermostat is set to...

Ah, no - the programmer is a separate unit - a Horstmann H27XL - and that sets the times that the heating comes on and off. The thermostat just sets the temperature (or used to, at any rate).

Not sure about check it - I did align the flat part of the spindle with the front of the valve per instructions... though the replacement actuator (with lever latched in man position) did need a tiny bit of finessing to fit properly onto the spindle/valve body.

Feeling a bit warm yesterday evening, checked the radiators and they're all fierce hot - checked the wireless thermostat and it was reading 25 deg, and rising, even though it was set to 21 deg. The display on the wireless thermostat (Honeywell DT92E) was showing the flame symbol (calling for...

Well, I'm not sure about that. Definitely seems to get pretty hot relative to the plastic. But in any case insulating it seems to be the answer, thanks for your help!

Thank you for this excellent and detailed reply - and probably the right answer; just harder work than I'd hoped, so: The plastic sheets were fixed onto timber upstands/battens on top of the felt, themselves fixed through the felt and roof boards into the rafters. When the plastic sheets were...

Bumping this a little bit in the hopes of getting some help re boarding/insulation!! What would be the most suitable insulation - celotex type, or rockwool, or actual wool? I guess this goes between the "ceiling" joists and above the finished "ceiling"?? For boarding/lining (ie forming the...

Not so sure about ventilation being the issue - have tried windows open, half open and open just a crack and it makes no difference. However it turns out I am an idiot because the shed is divided internally into two parts, and the part that I *don't* use to store my tools (it has garden tools...

Well it gets a bit of sun and yes appreciate it will get hot in there. definitely not planning to replace the steel, but would like to mitigate any dampness that might be resulting from condensate sitting on the roof boards, if that's what's happening*. My gut feel is to maybe try to insulate...

Good questions - basically it always had the corrugated plastic over the felt, simply replaced the plastic for steel. The reasons for the "extra" roof are partly aesthetic (it's a large and prominent building) and more practically to extend the roof slightly so as to direct rainfall into the...

Hoping someone can give me some clues on how to resolve a damp problem in my tool shed. The shed itself is timber frame clad in thick waney edge, with a concrete base. It's pretty substantial for a shed and very old, certainly it's on the plans from long before the house was built (1970s). It...

Excellent, thanks. I think I'll do it like that - shut off both street and house stopcocks, take the temporary pipe off and let the water in the pipe escape, then fit the new pipe, turn on both stopcocks, check for any leaks and then backfill the trench.

Ah, because that's the section of pipe (mains supply up front garden) that needs to be disconnected so it can be cut to length and put into the trench.

Sorry to resuscitate an old thread; I went away before I could do this job and then lockdown etc, but back now and about to give it another go... Possibly about to ask something very stupid indeed. Is there any need to wait for the accumulator to empty, or could I just shut off the stopcock...