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Just updating this with the fix for my Ideal Classic FF260 in case it helps anyone else..... I had the issue where my boiler was literally boiling the water in the system, causing it to pump over into my header tank. Radiators were far too hot. This was made much worse recently after fitting...

Just updating this with the fix for my own Ideal Classic FF260..... I had the issue where my boiler was literally boiling the water in the system, causing it to pump over into my header tank. Radiators were far too hot. This was made much worse recently after fitting Tado Smart TRVs which when...

Many thanks!!

Hi. Did you ever find out what the problem was with this?

I do follow what you are saying. Cheers

I've also just proved the backfeed issue with how my valves are wired. With both CH and HW on, both valves will remain open until the last of either the HW or CH is turned off.

I've also just proved the backfeed issue with how my valves are wired. With both CH and HW on, both valves will remain open until the last of either the HW or CH is turned off.

So is it possible the root of my problems here could be that I have a common feed and expansion pipe? I've just been up in my loft as I'd wondered previously when bunging the system to change some radiator valves why there was no expansion pipe. The water up there is still steaming hot inside...

I think you might be onto something @ianmcd . Just doing a crash course now...

I believe so yes. It's where it seems to eventually dissipate.

OK so the kettling occurs when the HW is still on (valve open, pump on medium setting and boiler fired up). Below is a short video where you can hear the kettling. You will see me check the pump and then decrease the cylinder stat to turn the HW off. The Valve closes and I then check the pump...

Whats interesting is I had to wind the cylinder stat up from 55 to get the HW to come on as the water in the cylinder was past 65.

I'm boosting the HW now with the CH off. Will see what happens.

The cylinder does get hot but the outlet at the bottom cools right down once HW switched off indicating the valve is closed. The valve turns freely by hand and it's a new Actuator.

It's possible this may have been the case in the past. Both valves closed and the pump may have been running along with the boiler. But today I checked and the pump and boiler were off. With the cylinder stat set at 60 there shouldn't be enough heat build up to cause kettling surely. I...

It only happens with CH off. Also downstream of the pump and into the bypass it gets ridiculously hot. It's too hot to touch both sides of the pump. But only with CH off.

Ideal Classic FF260

Back through Orange > Grey and across to Brown? If temp not satisfied, power to valve, valve opens, microswitch is closed, grey to orange and boiler and pump run?

The thing is the pump is perfectly quiet with no vibration. The water is the pipes gets so hot it's effectively boiling up before banging and eventually dissipating. I reckon it's turning into steam. This only happens with WH on and CH off so if it's not electrical it's got to be insufficient...