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If there is a meter, and the leak is after the meter, you'll be paying for the water.

Use a magnet on the Aerjec and around the copper pipes that connect into it. If the magnet sticks, then I would recommend cutting out the aerjec and re-piping with a combined feed and vent like this, if your boiler is compatible.Untitled by 45yearsagasman posted 7 Jan 2011 at 8:27 PM

Post a picture of the pump and motorised valves and the surrounding pipework. That will determine the type of system you have.

Also make sure the pilot is cleaned.(y)

He or she should be able to produce a card with a picture on it together with a Gas Safe registration number which can be cross checked on the website. He should leave his paperwork after completion.

Certainly doesn't look like any TRV I've ever seen.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/bwt-deluxe-faucet-surface-mounted-drinking-water-tap-satin-stainless-steel/484HY?tc=NB9&ds_kid=92700046986170840&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1245725&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=Cj0KCQiAu62QBhC7ARIsALXijXQW_MfIicJ2NXSn-Szx6Kvyn6R9Ts5r91HHC7_aVjOY9eNiD0Cuv8saAvjIEALw_wcB&gc...

Then prime and paint the pipe.

I would take into consideration that the older part of your heating system pipework might not take kindly to a higher pressure. Just sayin

As this is a public forum, gas advice is not permitted, so best advice is to call a pro to diagnose and repair. It should be a simple fix.

Be a bit more specific. Is it the Micron 30FF? Do you hear the fan running?

A standard trap would be better, but those joints look to be solvent welded, and might prove difficult to remove.

Good boiler as far as I'm concerned. I've had one for 7 years and there was a problem with the heat exchanger, which was replaced free of all charges under warranty.

It depends on the make/model/age of the valve. Most modernish valves have a removeable head section. A picture would help.

I assumed that there may be the same TRV's fitted to other rads on your system.

Do you have the old head? Much easier to ID from the head.

A 12" pair of Channel Lock pump pliers is what I have always used. Never let me down. A spanner would not be my choice.

A type 22 rad (double panel, double convector) piped up with fittings, or an extension piece would be my choice This is how I do mine. It would involve a rad valve change from the type you have.Untitled by 45yearsagasman posted 17 Nov 2011 at 12:38 PM

Refer to the manufacturers instructions for clearances.

https://www.heatandplumb.com/acatalog/smiths-ecovector-hl-1000-high-eco-hl-1000?utm_source=google&utm_medium=Shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjw7pKFBhDUARIsAFUoMDaer6-cw5fKHq4Nb-HX4_nbVNABm1tM1endqeR_-yIJU5V6i3JNAd8aAj-tEALw_wcB Maybe what you're looking for? Bit pricey. Shop around.