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If you have skirting boards, then the gap behind it will also include the depth of your skirting board too, so it sounds like you're gonna have around 28mm (assuming 18mm skirtings)

Hook is like 1.5m, connector block is like 2.2m

That's a good shout, thanks! I guess as it's next to the sea, and quite a humid country, the wood will be very damp and salty. Having a connector block exposed like that seems so bad! A child could easily climb up and touch it. Or an adult could accidentally knock it.

Back to the topic though, does anyone know what would be causing the tingle?

Unfortunately we booked directly. I'm keeping on at hotel management though.

I already have done. They didn't care. Pretty shocking to say the least. It's another point to add to my scathing review of this place

I'm on holidays, and there is a metal hook on an umbrella with a cable running up behind it to power a light. I can't see any screws going through the cable, or any evidence of the hook rubbing on the cable, however when I touch the hook I get a small tingle. Any idea why it might be? I'm just...

I normally use Dulux diamond Matt for high traffic area. Recently I've tried little green paint a few times and really like it

Check out the edited version of my comment before this one. You can do it with a laser measurerer

You can use your high school maths! Good old Pythagoras. If you go outside in the evening with a laser measurer, you could measure from where you are to the top of the chimney. You can then measure how far away the chimney is along the floor (might be a little tricky with walls in the way)...

If you do wanna do the chase wall and trunking route, I did it recently. I got a Samsung frame that has a separate box that lives below the TV where all the HDMI etc connects to, and then it just has one wire that runs to the TV. I still had to bury some pretty big trunking in the wall to...

Sorry! Hopefully this one works: https://www.diy.com/departments/oak-veneer-acoustic-panel-l-2400mm-w-572-5mm-7-2kg/9010115274778_BQ.prd That's just an example from B&Q. Everywhere does them nowadays. I've.neber tried using them.

Circular saw will produce and edge like that no problem. You're much better with a hand saw than I am!

If it's a solid dividing wall, you're gonna struggle with getting that many cables in the wall. There is guidance on how much of the wall you can chase, buts it's something like 20-30% depth. Also, your point about moving the switch, if it's a stud wall, you're gonna have studs around your door...

You want your circular saw to protrude about 2mm out the bottom of the board and you'll be fine. So your depth of cut would be 26/27mm

A circular saw with a reasonably sharp blade will be fine. With MDF edges I put 2 part wood filler all along them, and then give them a sand when dry. It gives a pretty flawless finish once primed and painted with a couple of coats. I've done a load of window boards in my house with 25mm...

The two most common methods is hardcore, DPM at least 100mm PIR, concrete slab then screed. Or hardcore, DPM, slab, PIR, screed. Or you can always do a floating floor over the PIR on top of the slab. This brochure gives you everything you need and all the U values...

Thanks! This gives me some more confidence. It will be a nightmare if I get it all done and smells start bubbling up through the sink!

I have a soil stack either side of my house, the drains run to the front of the house and both flow in to a man hole. The right hand sand has recently been refreshed, and is an external stack with a standard vent above the roof. The left hand stack runs internally, and the vent runs through...

Unfortunately there are no air bricks by our front door to the hall way, so there is absolutely no air flow through there, so I'm not surprised it's gone rotten there. Ideally we don't want to take up the living room floor as that has UFH etc so would be a real nightmare, but I guess I could...