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1 Bathroom and 1 Kitchen currently as is, may add 2nd bathroom via loft conversion way down the line. Litters per second is unknown at this stage as have not moved in yet.

Quick question, out of the two boilers below, what would you say is the better and more reliable one? 1) Vaillant ecoTEC plus 940 Boiler 2) Viessman Vitodens 111-W Boiler 3) Or how about the Vaillant EcoTEC Pro 24 which is not a storage combi, but has the "aquaCOMFORT System" which is...

I just fear that whilst I could get all the parts myself for say for £2500-3000 inc vat, yet I would have to pat another £1000-2000 on top of this for someone’s labour, which I have not really got the money for.

I know of course one would have to inspect it at various stages and would have to be involved before you started any work. Obviously it would be no good if you had already put floorboards back down and had filled in chases in the walls, covering up how the cable was run and making sure it...

Yea following those prices, I am likely going to try and find a local electrician who is a member of a 3rd party certification scheme and willing to inspect and sign off my work. The whole point of me doing it myself was to: A) Save money and not pay far more than the material costs. B) To do...

Got quote back from Liverpool building control on how much it would be for them to inspect and sign off any works....£1052! A whopping £702 to submit the full plans to them, another £500 for them to inspect & sign of the electrical work, - £150 if I can provide my own complaint test...

You also need to not only know how to safely carry out the tests, but also how to do them correctly, how to correctly interpret the results and know what traps/red herrings to watch out for. i.e. Ze + R1 + R2 rarely = exactly Zs due to parallel "earth" paths due to bonded pipe work, etc...

Do you have the calibrated equipment (i..e a MFT) to test the circuits yourself?

Ok.

Thanks for replying, I am of course aware there are three main ways to get Part P notifiable work signed of by the local building control. 1) Use a electrician who is registered with a Part P scheme like NAPIT. 2) Use a 3rd Party certification scheme, that was introduced under the last...

So let's say I bought a old house that needed a full re-wire for example and I wanted to do the re-wire all myself (obviously complying to BS7671), what is the process regarding involving the local councils building control when doing notifiable electrical work under Part P. I assume you need...

The values is column D were created using the calculator at the top and then manfully entered into the cells D14 to D23. The values in column H were calculated in the same way, but using the corrected grouping factor accounting for less cables. Well I did exclude two circuits for being <30% of...

Maybe, but I have just compared table 4C1 and the notes under it in the on site guide and in the full BS7671 regs book, and they are exactly the same including the notes under the table, with the exception where as the full reg book provides correction values for groups of cables of 16 and 20...

Why damaged?? I was just saying that the tabulated load for 8 cables grouped together where two of them are 32A circuits, would require cables capable of supporting 61Amps for those 32A circuits based on the formula given in the regs. i.e. For the 32A kitchen sockets, 0.3 (30%) x 0.52...

Not that I've ever noticed, but BS7671 bases things on a worse case scenario from what I know.

Because that's what my electrician who did the 1st and 2nd fixing used back in 2013. It was a very long time ago now, but the main/1st electrician never came back to finish it all off due to financial reasons due to getting stitched up by my builder, so my builder had to use someone else to sign...

So following having a read the other day of both the on site guide and the full BS7671 regs that I have, it dawned on me how much of a impact grouping of cables as per table 4C1 has, and how I suspect that what my electrician did back in 2013, violates the regs. I'm trying to work out that if...

Except a 4mm radial (like I have in my kitchen) would de-rate the cable to 30A which is less than the 32A over current protective device typically used these days. Not many 30A RCBO's/MCB's around as far as I know.

OK, but would you use galvanised or PVC capping?

But surely that would de-rate the cable as it would then fall under reference method B or possibly A?