Search results

Should my shower shroud cover these exposed threads? I can’t tighten the nuts anymore and the shroud can’t be moved closer as the threads/nut will start to show on the other side. I can’t move the threads into the wall as there’s not enough space around the copper pipes.

I’m trying to remove my toilet in preparation for tiling, but I’m struggling to loosen the nut on the water supply line. I’ve already applied WD-40, but when I attempt to loosen the nut, the entire thread rotates along with it. Does anyone have advice on how to get the nut loose so I can remove...

I’m planning to feed an electrical cable (to connect to a led mirror) through an exterior wall, but there’s insulation and a plastic vapor barrier directly behind the plasterboard. There seems to be enough room to run the cable, but I’m concerned about having the insulation and vapor barrier...

Ply was sealed with SBR. I was debating tile adhesive or mortar but decided to go with manufacturer instructions - hope I don’t regret it!

I’ve had a shower tray bedded down onto a sand-cement mixture, which is laid directly on marine plywood. I’ve noticed a small gap forming between the sand-cement layer and the plywood base. The tray itself feels solid and stable when I stand on it, so there doesn’t seem to be any immediate...

I’m planning on having an access hatch to get access to the pipes. The rest of the house is plastic pipes so thought I may as well use the same.

Sorry I meant to say they’ll be behind a plastered wall - not embedded. I plan to leave a hatch behind the vanity to access the pipes.

Sorry I meant to say they’ll be behind a plastered wall - not embedded

They’ll be in a plastered wall which will be tiled over.

I’m hoping to move my sink hot cold pipes into an exterior wall. They’re currently coming up through the floor but we’d like a floating vanity so the pipes need to be routed into the wall. Is putting these pipes through an exterior wall a bad idea? I’m using plastic pipes.

Yes, that’s my plan, but I’m just concerned about what would happen if I make a mistake during the solvent welding process. If I misstep, I won’t have enough pipe left to cut back and start over.

Planning on adding these

I’m planning to connect a shower trap to the waste pipes for a new shower tray. The waste outlet is located towards the wall in the center, so the waste pipes will need a 90-degree bend. I’ll need to make a cut near the existing Tee, but I’m concerned that if I don’t get it right the first time...

Would it be easier to use tile adhesive and level by applying more where needed?

It’s not going on a riser - could I still use packers somehow?

It’s about 4mm out of level. Plywood is on chipboard.

How would I do this? Not sure how I would do this with packers

I was debating this but decided to stick to manufacturers instructions to maintain the warranty

Marine plywood

I’m laying down a 1200 x 760 stone resin on a floor that isn’t level. Manufacture instructions recommend a cement mix or silicone. Silicone seems like the simpler option but can this be used to level a shower tray? Or would a sand cement mix be better for this?