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Final follow up. New expansion vessel arrived. I successfully swapped it out, and now all is very good. Pressure holds and remains steady. Very happy. In short: If you bleed your radiators and suddenly find your boiler over-pressurised when heating is on, consider that you expansion vessel might...

Ok, system cold, pressure at 2 bar, long press on the EV valve = water. No air. I've ordered an new EV.

Thanks. I guess I don't understand the vessel design properly. I thought the bladder contained the water, and the vessel contained air. The bladder is connected to the CH and the vessel to the valve. The vessel is pressurised to 1 bar at manufacture and thus compresses (deflates) the bladder...

OK, I'm impatient, so I took a look now. The heating was in an idle lull (between runs) so although not cold it wasn't hot either. Note it was still at maybe 2 bar. I turned off the boiler first and then looked for the expansion vessel. The expansion vessel valve is on the top of the vessel and...

Sure, I assume I need to cool, isolate and drain the boiler first. The working pressure would only apply with the vessel emptied of water, otherwise I'd get a false measurement.

I see online that Baxi's expansion vessels have a bike tyre style valve, which means I can cool down the heating system (ie wait til tomorrow morning), then try briefly pressing the pin in the valve to see if it's under pressure. I'm assuming: A) If water comes out then the vessel has burst...

OK, so I checked my pressure discharge outlet, which is outside and faces the brickwork - it's all wet there. So I can assume that's doing its job correctly and releasing the system pressure when it exceeds 3 bar. So now I need to understand why the pressure reaches 3 bar - perhaps the expansion...

My closed central heating system has been fine for years. 6yr old Baxi combi boiler, 11 radiators. One bedroom radiator was discovered to be full of air (more air than water I reckon), so I vented it. In doing so the system pressure dropped, as you'd expect, and the air stopped coming out, so I...

I can't imagine the cost of hard wood compared to pine, but point taken, thank you. The warping could be due to the drying out of the pine then. Darn. Do you have an idea how I can unwarp?

The entire deck has this railing with a flat top and rounded edges, designed to support leaning, cups and small plates. It's quite common in New England style porches, which is the look we've gone for. The wood is weather treated and double painted, so I'm doing my best to prevent water damage.

My spirit level tells the mounted vertical supports are exactly vertical, and the inner vertical posts are not vertical. I guess that confirms the gates are non-flat?

I built these little wooden swinging gates for the top of the steps on our deck area. I built them square and flat, kept them in the garage for a few weeks whilst I painted them. And now they're warped, which you can see from the misalignment of the top part where they come together (the bottoms...

OK, so I got this solved. When I took off diverter motor I discovered water, which meant the diverter valve itself was leaking upwards into the drive. New drive and new diverter valve cartridge (thankfully not a diverter body replacement). To replace (for reference in case anyone's interested)...

Yes, that's the part. But i've just discovered the diverter is leaking. So I need a replacement diverter cartridge too. Ordered from Screwfix, will collect then fit. I'll report back...

This is a fantastic video from Baxi on the diverter motor body workings! I watched this video to learn how to replacer the diverter head, and the chap mentioned water showing in the head would mean the diverter cartridge had failed. I've got exactly that, water in the head and evidence of rust...

I've just bought a Baxi genuine part from Screwfix, have it in my hands now but can't try installing it until later. I'll report on what happens. I assume the driver motor sits on top of the valve, and isn't exposed to water, so I don't need to drain the system to replace the drive.

I checked the hall effect sensor on the domestic hot water supply side and it is okay. It has a red neon light which illuminates when it detects domestic hot water demand, and I only see it light when I open the tap, it never lights otherwise. Thank you for helping me rule this out.

The diverter valve does not return by default to any particular position, it is driven to the position by a supply voltage. For domestic hot water, 240 volts are seen on pin 7, and for central heating that supply is moved to pin 6. This suggests to me the diverter valve needs driving in both...

Interestingly, if I turn on the CH demand the voltage supply to the diverter correctly switches to pins 5 & 6, and the diverter motor stops making any noise. I'm guessing it's driven to the other valve position and stopped driving. When I turn off that CH demand, wait 3 mins for everything to...

I don't know if a diverter motor should keep running, 24/7, or whether it should recognise the valve position and stop turning when it reaches the desired position. This diverter motor seems to be running forever.