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I think I've found the way to make it easier. I put bridge packers on a blob of sealant on the top and sides. That was enough to hold them in place and made it much easier to get the other packers in once the glazing was in place.

I've been trying to heel and toe a UPVC door with double glazing. I'm finding that the packers keep pushing to the back and it's hard to grab hold of them again. When they go to the back they don't cover the whole double glazed unit, which I believe will cause it to fail eventually. Is there...

I'm fitting windows with expanding foam tape and I'm wondering how I use the packers and foam tape. Packers usually stick out the front and then get cut off when finished, but then the tape wouldn't seal. Should I put some packers in with sealant at the same thickness of the cavity closer, and...

I think I will do engineering bricks on the side that isn't seen, some weep holes along the bottom course (below ground level), and pea gravel behind the wall. What size foundation would be best for this? There is a large tree near by, and clay in places, but some places may be sandy. I built...

I will double skin it, and I was considering a DPM. Would I need a perforated land drain behind the DPM to let the water out?

I need to build a small retaining wall (about 300mm above ground level). I have loads of bricks left over from building my extension, so they wouldn't cost anything to use, and match the extension perfectly. They are rusticated bricks and only ratted F1, S2. If I use these, are they likely to...

I need to get windows for my new extension (DIY). I'm wondering what measurement I need when there are cavity closers? My understanding is there should be a 5-10mm gap each side of the frames. The cavity closers are a minimum of 3mm each side, but they are a slightly curved shape, which leaves...

I think I know what I'm going to do now... I will support the garage door with uni strut (or similar). This may be off the walls at the sides, but I'll use the wall plates if that doesn't work out. For the ceiling, I'll use PVC panels, which I believe are a little under 4kg/m2. If I combine...

I spoke with a truss designer person and he believed that they were only designed for 250N/m2, which is what my designs seem to say. I think they were designed for a chipboard deck and minimal storage. Chipboard + plasterboard isn't far off 250N/m2. I believe trusses are also spec'ed to allow a...

I believe it has been designed so that the bottom chord will only take 250N/m2.

Here are a couple of pictures. The front and back (timber wall plate and steel beam with timber). The OSB is where it transitions to a flat roof. I'm thinking of cutting a square out of the insulation, pushing steel through and then pulling it through to put the other end on timber.

I've just finished a truss roof. I used queen post trusses so that I could store loads of stuff up there. I've now discovered that it won't actually take the weight. Plasterboard + chipboard may just about leave me with enough weight to support my garage door, which makes the storage area...

I've used the plastic tube washers for my flat roof and I'm wondering whether the holes should be filled with expanding foam (or sealant). I've seen somebody say that the air can expand in hot weather, but I have doubts about whether that would cause problems. Of course, a little more insulation...

T&G & glued joints OSB deck (on joists), Alutrix vapor barrier, 150mm PIR insulation (joints foil taped), T&G & glued joints OSB deck, Resitrix EPDM membrane.

I'm building a flat roof and think I have some water trapped in it. There is water dripped out the lowest point (on the outside), which is probably going through my vapor barrier (which should have been water proof). It's hard to tell how much water could be in there, but will this be a problem...

I'm wondering what type of insulation is required for a warm flat roof? I looked at what my local merchant stocks, and they only stock one type of PIR insulation, which seems to be what everybody uses for roofs. It's the 'floor' insulation, and after speaking with the tech department, the...

No. I'm planning to have a timber drip edge (probably 3" x 2"), which will overhang, but not the OSB itself. The fascia etc. can then sit under the drip edge.

Thank you, that's very helpful. It should be possible for me to remove the screws that I've put in so far. Yes, my joists are inside the walls. I can see why people usually have them extending further now. I have metal web joists, so They wouldn't be able extend through like timber joists. So...

Is it really this bad? Does this mean people don't normally fix the edges?

Maybe my question wasn't very clear. My joists have restraint straps. My question is about the very perimeter of the roof where the bricks are. The perimeter will have 18mm OSB, 4"x2" timber and then another sheet of OSB. I guess my main concern is movement. If there are no screws then things...